When I first started Chemotherapy, the most immediate change I noticed was in my skin. After my first dose of A/C, I woke up and could see a major difference; Seemingly overnight my skin went from being oily to incredibly dry, brittle and tight. Deep wrinkles along my forehead had started to form (though truthfully, that also could have been a byproduct of alllllll the stress and sleepless nights…) and my skin was totally broken out. One thing was for certain; the products I had been using weren’t going to cut it. I also wanted to look a bit more closely at the kinds of products I was using overall and make more mindful switches to incorporate clean beauty products in my routine whenever possible. I searched the internet for tips on how to take care of my new chemo skin and came up totally empty-handed. There just wasn’t much available in terms of a thoughtful chemo skincare guide for someone like me. So, I reached out to skincare guru Sofie Pavitt who kindly reviewed my skincare routine and made suggestions for cancer-friendly products. You’ll see her tips pop up throughout this post. With her help, I noticed a huge change in my skin and wanted to share the wealth for other women who may be facing some of these same issues as they navigate life with cancer. Hope this is useful!
SKINCARE
Prior to starting chemo, I alternated between a gel cleanser and this exfoliating face wash to help regulate my oiliness and tame breakouts. Neither product was particularly moisturizing and exfoliants of any kind were going to be too harsh for my chemo skin. Sofie suggested using a milder, more gentle cleanser during Chemo and avoiding exfoliants as they strip delicate skin. I made the switch to this cleansing oil and have LOVED the way it makes my skin feel. Even better? It’s a clean beauty product, so I feel good about using it every day. I purchased this jelly cleanser for traveling (the consistency is incredible!) and this clean oil to try when I run out of Tatcha. If you aren’t already, I’d suggest switching from a gel cleanser to a cleansing facial oil during chemo. Now is the time to be extra gentle with your skin and that begins with cleansing. TIP: Instead of exfoliating every day, Sofie suggested doing a weekly exfoliant with these pads, if my skin felt up to it. (Also, real talk, for the days I was so exhausted and couldn’t be bothered to shower, let alone wash my face, these wipes were a godsend. They’re like a mini trip to the spa and really came in handy post surgery as well!)
Chemotherapy is EXTREMELY dehydrating so the biggest factor while caring for chemo skin is to add back moisture. After cleansing it was important to rehydrate my skin to combat dryness. I was always so hesitant to use a facial oil because I thought it would trigger breakouts, but now my skin just drinks it up. I like to layer products. It’s a great way to give your skin the nutrients it lacks and build back the moisture chemo stole! I played around and have found a combo that seems to make my skin happy. First, I spritz on a natural toner packed with essential oils and aloe vera (psst, this one is also great and only $12!!). Next, I apply this serum while my skin is still slightly damp from the toner. TIP: Sofie suggested keeping skin moist whenever using a Hyaluronic Acid based product for maximum absorption. I then use this Vitamin B5 serum (another clean beauty find!). For daytime, I mix the serum with this clarifying day oil (I found it at Whole Foods). I love the light herbal scent and consistency, plus it leaves my skin feeling refreshed. At nighttime, I mix that same serum with midnight recovery oil for even deeper hydration. On days when my skin is feeling real thirsty, I use this overnight sleep mask to amp up the hydration (lasts forever and a steal at $25). After all this, I look like an insane grease bomb, but my skin is so happy with all the extra juice I realize just how dry it really is!
SUN PROTECTION
Sunscreen is another big part of caring for chemo skin. Admittedly, this is a step I sometimes forget, but chemo makes your skin even more sensitive to the sun. On days I know I’ll be outside, I carry sunscreen with me so I can reapply as needed. I love that it’s small enough to pop in my purse. It has a great consistency and no scent; perfect for those days when you’re not feeling so great about lots of different scents. This one has a delicate scent, but those who are sensitive to smells might not love it (especially during chemo). I didn’t spend a lot of time in the sun in general, but we did have one warm weather vacation and I noticed how easily my skin felt “burned” after even just a little time outside. I used this for a full body sunscreen which helped a lot (it’s specially designed for post-procedure skin, so it was great to use on the scarred area from my port placement surgery). And don’t forget, your lips need SPF too!
BODY
Ok, so we know chemo causes dry skin, but that doesn’t just mean your face. I tried to be much better about moisturizing everywhere and found a few standout products. This lotion was recommended as a popular choice for cancer patients because it has no scent and a great texture, plus it’s clean. I also like using a body oil for extra hydration. I was using a scented one early on in my treatment, and while it didn’t bother me much at the time, I would probably have major issues using it now (scent memory is real, y’all!). Sofie suggested this healing balm as a moisture powerhouse; a splurge, but a little goes a long way. I never used one, but the idea of a body oil with CBD would be perfect for relieving tension and soothing achy chemo muscles.
MAKE-UP
My make-up routine has always been fairly simple, but now I need extra time to fill in my eyebrows which have been ravaged by chemo. Both my eyebrows and eyelashes started falling out around my 5th round of Taxol. Oddly enough, I was OK losing my brows, mainly because I knew I’d be able to pencil them in with fairly convincing results. However, losing my lashes was another story. There’s no way around it, losing your eyelashes instantly makes you look “sick”, which was hard for me. Looking in the mirror and seeing myself with no lashes or brows made me look sick, even if that isn’t how I felt.
I always wear eyeliner, but found that lining the upper inner eyelid helped camouflage the lack of lashes and added definition. I then layer my regular liquid liner on top. I haven’t bothered with fake lashes, but I’m using this serum to help promote quicker regrowth. Also, Castor Oil helps promote regrowth and is inexpensive. I LOVE using this product on my brows; I have been lucky that I haven’t lost ALL my brows, so I can use what’s left as a sort of template to fill in the blanks. What I love most about it is that it’s more like a pen, so you can literally feather in and draw little hairs. It’s a miracle! I then use this brow gel to keep what’s left in place. It’s worth noting that the shade range here isn’t huge; but if you’re like me and have dark brows, I highly suggest giving it a try. (P.S. It takes a little practice, so I did a mini brow tutorial on my IG, saved in my highlights!) You can also find false eyebrows for anyone with total loss who wants a convincing dupe!
Dark circles were a big problem for me during chemo; not surprisingly sleep was not always easy for me and as I lost color in my face, the circles become more and more obvious. I usually use this product and liked that it was light, but still had good coverage. I made the switch to this and it has been amazing for helping me look more rested; the consistency is thick and lasts all day. I use it all over my face, sort of as a spot treatment and it blends really nicely!
It’s true what they say; putting on some make-up was like an instant mood lifter for me. I would catch my reflection and felt more like myself instead of a cancer patient. For me, color was so important during chemo; the drugs, lack of sleep and stress really made me look washed out, plus I wasn’t going in the sun so my usual “glow” was gone. This tanning mousse was recommended to me as a self-tan option, but I preferred using bronzer to help brighten things up. I really love this all in one (clean!) product that works wonders on cheeks, lips and eyes. This guy isn’t clean, but still my go-to for an every day, flattering color.
I’ve never been a big fan of lipstick or lip gloss, too fussy for my taste, so I tend to look for tinted balms. I LOVE this lip tint; it’s the perfect amount of color and goes on more like a lip balm. This one is also great, comes in a big range of colors and it’s got SPF! This lip product is beloved by every make-up artist I’ve ever worked with, and is suuuuuper hydrating. I love it for the price and it lasts forever. Not all of these products are clean, but as they run out, I’ll do my best to make clean swaps whenever I can.
Ok, so, that's what has been working for me. The irony is that while the rest of my world is falling apart, my skin has never looked better! A big thank you to Sofie Pavitt for helping me retool my kit. I cannot wait to book one of her internet-famous hydro-jelly mask facials the next time I’m in New York. My goal is that this guide provides some useful information to any other women who are looking for ways to feel their best during chemo.