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The Far & Near

a life well traveled.
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Travel Guides

Amagansett, NY

Notes coming soon...

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Blackberry Farm, TN

What can I say about Blackberry Farm that hasn't already been said? It lives up to the hype on every level and is a study in true Southern hospitality. Nestled in the foothills of the Great Smoky Mountains, the views are stunning, especially in the early morning when the mist is rising. It's been a great pleasure of mine to spend time here with family and friends, and it's a place I always leave feeling rested and relaxed. I'll let the photos do the talking...

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Corsica

Most people might have trouble locating Corsica on a map, I'm perfectly content with it staying a bit off the radar. The locals are too. We spent our honeymoon here, exploring what felt like a hidden gem in every sense. Every meal was a revelation, every beach prettier than the last. 

Bed
La Plage was divine. The sister property of the ultra spendy/ultra chic Casadelmar, La Plage is located just across the bay of Porto Vecchio on the Benedettu peninsula. Palapa huts along the beach reminded us of Tulum and the lush mountains looked like Thailand. Tip: A speedboat shuttle is offered to Casadelmar. Pop over for a midday cocktail.

U Palazzu Serenu is located in the charming hillside town of Oletta in a 17th-century palace. Restrained and modern, the rooms and public spaces are chic. There's a lap pool for sunny afternoons. Tip: Stroll through the tiny town around dusk before stopping at A Forge for dinner while the sun sets. 

Hotel Solemare has an excellent location in the marina of Bonifacio. It's a short walk up through the citadel for a variety of dinner options. The view of the boats in the harbor at night is so pretty. 

About 20 minutes drive outside of Bonifacio proper is Hotel U Capu Biancu. Located up in the hills with a stunning view overlooking the Gulfo Santa Manza, they have a small private (rocky) beach. Breakfast on the terrace is lovely.

Food + Drink
For lunch, you can't do better than Tamarriciu at Palmobaggia beach. It was truly one of our favorite meals in Corsica (where there was no shortage of delicious Medieterran food...). We will not forget the tuna burger, lobster ravioli, out toes firmly in the sand and a bottle of local rosé. For dessert, grab an ice cream pop from the vending machine. May I suggest Pistachio?

Kissing Pigs is a bit of an institution in Bonifacio. If you want a quick, affordable meal, it's a decent option. 

Restaurant Stella D'Oro offers a traditional, Corsican style menu. Tip: The menu of the day is a price friendly option.

Restaurant du Club Nautique was a bit off the typical tourist path. We loved the prawn pasta after a long day of traveling. The service was excellent and warm.

Le Pirate was a delicious detour in the small seaside town of Erlabunga. Tables here are right on the lip of the ocean. Tip: Go for lunch when the Michelin starred restaurant is a bit more casual. 

Restaurant Ranch'O Plage is an excellent choice for dinner. The beachside location is the best. Get the oysters.

Etc.
Corsica is easily accessible via Paris or Nice. If you have the time, I'd suggest flying in and out of different airports. We flew into Figari and out of Ajaccio allowing ourselves time along the way to explore the many villages and beaches.  Renting a car is essential for getting around. Tip: Be sure to book an automatic if that's your preference. Otherwise, you may end up with a manual!

Google maps doesn't work in some of the more remote areas of Corsica. Try renting a GPS, or printing out directions beforehand. 

English is not widely spoken. Brush up on basic French phrases before your trip. 

Lastly, Corsica is a French territory, and under French law travel in and out of the country must occur within 3 months of your passport expiration date. I sadly learned of this rule the hard way after being denied boarding onto a flight for Paris (and ultimately Corsica) for our 1 year wedding anniversary. Lesson learned: every country has different rules regarding passports. Check before you go! 

 

 

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Marrakech, Morocco

Morocco has long been on my list of places to explore, and I was beyond thrilled at the chance to experience Marrakech. But, after just an afternoon of exploring the medina, I was ready to write Marrakech off as a chaotic tourist trap full of pushy peddlers. I spent the entire day fending off youngsters offering help and demanding money, haggling for literally EVERYTHING and just generally feeling like I was getting taken advantage of at every turn. I was beyond disappointed and completely exhausted. But on the following day, Marrakech revealed a new side of itself to me, and just like that, I was sold.

The souk overflowing with gorgeous textiles and traditional babouches, the spice shops electric with bright colors, the doors and floors with intricate designs and detailing, the mint tea and orange juice...Marrakech is a feast for the senses. I came away from this trip feeling so inspired, and I only scratched the surface of what Morocco has to offer. This is a place you'll want to return again and again. I know I do.

Here are some highlights, tips on traveling in a Muslim country and in general, a few things I wish I had known...

Food + Drink
There is no shortage of good food in Marrakech with a great many restaurants catering to the tourist set, but if you want something a bit more authentic, riad dining is the way to go. We loved Villa Des Orangers for delicious Moroccan cuisine in a gorgeous setting (tables set around the pool with candles everywhere). Tip: This is also a lovely hotel with a great location, very proximate to Jemaa el Fna (main square of Marrakech).

Dar Rhizlane is another riad with wonderful food and a very romantic setting (FYI there are rose petals covering every square inch of Marrakech. Prepare to be amazed). 

For lunch and a welcome escape from the Medina, check out Terrasse Des Epices. Everyone recommends it, and for good reason. The decor is chic and minimal, plus there's wifi and delicious orange juice to be had.

Le Grand Cafe De La Poste is an excellent option for an evening cocktail or dinner. Tip: Gentlemen, beware, closed toe footwear is required. We learned that lesson the hard way after being turned away for flip flops. Lucky for us, there's a Zara across the street so after a quick purchase of new shoes we were back in business. Be sure to try the oysters from Dahkla (Saharan coast of Africa!) and the monkfish tagine. Oh, and the frozen mojito is a delight.

Le Churchill Bar at La Mammounia is a bit of Britain in Africa. Tufted leather walls, leopard print chairs and stiff drinks in a smoky piano bar setting. We also enjoyed a sundowner or two in the garden bar of La Mammounia under the shade of the orange trees. It's not cheap, but the setting makes it all worth it.

Bed
For something splashy and indulgent, check out La Mammounia. It's a private oasis just steps from the Medina. The pool is the perfect place to spend a sweltering afternoon and check out the spa for a traditional hamam experience.

Riad El Fenn is well designed and well priced. 

The Four Seasons Marrakech is a taxi ride from many attractions, but offers excellent service and is great for families. 

Play
Jardin Majorelle is everything you want it to be and more. The instagram-worthy blue walls of Yves St. Laurent's estate will not disappoint. Better still is the gallery showcasing his "Love" prints. Tip: Go just an hour or so before closing to avoid the crowds.

The Medina is the main attraction in Marrakech and has it's fair share of tourist traps (Want your photo taken with a monkey? This is the spot...), but it can also be an amazing place to explore if you're willing to go off the beaten path. Getting lost here is inevitable. Don't fight it. But, looking lost and breaking out a map will be the first indication to those interested that you're easy prey. Seemingly innocent looking young boys will offer to help you find your way, only to get you more lost and then demand money in exchange for delivering you back to where you started. It's a racket. So, give yourself plenty of time to get lost and wander around. When you are ready to make your way back, pop into a shop or cafe to ask for directions or consult your map. Otherwise, sit back and enjoy the experience. This is what Marrakech is all about.

Shopping in the souk is not for the faint of heart. Be prepared to haggle. For everything. There are so many trinkets and treasures here...handwoven baskets, hammered metal lanterns, earthenware tagines and beautiful linens. Tip: If you hate to haggle (like me!), most of the hotels have wonderful gift shops where the prices are set, but still reasonable. I found it more enjoyable to shop in this kind of environment without the pressure of negotiating. Still, if you're up for it, brushing up on some basic French pre-trip will better serve you as you barter your way through the souk. 

By far the best day I spent in Marrakech was touring with Marc and Veronique. Their photography workshop is the best way to see the real Marrakech, and the bonus is you will leave with some wonderful photographs! If you have the time, I'd highly suggest it.

Faim d'Epices is another wonderful way to spend an afternoon once you've had your fill of the souk. Located outside the city on an olive farm, I spent the day cooking a traditional Moroccan feast. Making traditional Berber bread was a highlight. 

Shopping for rugs is another signature activity in Marrakech. I think it might be impossible to find the same rug shop twice in the labyrinth of the Medina. At the very least, visit a few shops before making a purchase...and of course doing a bit of research beforehand is recommended. Knowing what style you're after (Kilim? Beni Ouiran?) will give you the upper hand when negotiating, and trust me, you'll need all the help you can get. These guys are good. You'll be offered Berber whiskey, but really it's just mint tea. It is a gesture of good faith, but also a way of keeping you in the shop. Tip: Pack an extra bag for carrying your new rug home. I suggest something like this. You'll save a bundle on shipping and customs fees. 

Treat yourself to an authentic Moroccan spa experience. Les Bains de Marrakech is a favorite. A hamam will leave you feeling refreshed and with baby soft skin. 

Etc.
Don't forget, Morocco is a Muslim country and while it has the most generally lax attitude about many things (women, drinking, etc,), there were many moments during my trip when I was reminded that liberalism aside, religion is taken seriously here. You should also note that religious rules are observed even more fiercely during the month of Ramadan. There is no explicit dress code, but I always felt more comfortable (despite the heat), when I wore pants as opposed to shorts. I felt on the whole that I was approached much less and it was easier to blend in. Loose pants and a hat are recommended. 

Alcohol is not widely sold and is not permitted to be consumed in view of the general public. Most terraces that serve alcohol must be removed from view of the street area (i.e. Le Grand Cafe de la Poste). Tip: Try the Moroccan wines! They are very tasty and well priced. Casablanca is a refreshing and crisp beer; perfect for a hot day in Marrakech! 

Taxis - You MUST negotiate the price for a taxi before entering. I found it helpful to ask someone at the hotel what the fair price for a taxi from point A to point B would be. That should give you a baseline for negotiating a rate. Moroccans drive a hard bargain; don't be afraid to walk away and find another taxi. Also note, taxis will always be more expensive in front of your hotel or a main tourist spot (like Jardin Majorelle). If you're on a budget. it's worth walking a little bit out of the way to find a taxi off the beaten path. 

For a trip outside the city, check out my guide to the Atlas Mountains.

 

 

 

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Mendoza, Argentina

Mendoza was an all too brief pitstop as part of a larger South American trip, but I have no doubt that we will return. The food, wine and landscapes were so special and the laid-back vibe made it the perfect escape.

Food + Drink
You're in the land of Malbec and exceptional beef, so prepare to be amazed at every table. 

Nadia OF is a quiet, romantic restaurant in a white colonial home located off a busy street right in the heart of Mendoza. The food & wine are impeccable and handled with expert care by Nadia and her husband Jose (owner and operator of nearby O.Fournier Winery). The food is very refined, so if you're after something more rustic, look elsewhere.

Bodega Ruca Malen is a great option for lunch. The menu is multi-course, high concept and includes wine pairings, plus a winery tour of the vineyards and facilities. Tip: Reservations are required. Call ahead and book a table outside under the covered terrace. 

Bed
Cavas Wine Lodge is a special place. We actually planned a detour to Mendoza from Chile just to stay here! Cavas is comprised of individual adobe style villas, each with a plunge pool and roof deck complete with fireplace. Bikes are available for exploring the nearby vineyards. Tip: Request dinner on your roof deck as opposed to dining in the restaurant for a more intimate experience. 

Park Hyatt Mendoza is centrally located and walking distance to many restaurants in town. If you're planning to visit vineyards, this hotel might not be the best option, but would work well as a jumping off point for the beginning of your trip. 

Etc.
U.S. citizens must pay a reciprocity fee prior to arrival in Argentina. I'd suggest printing out an extra copy of your receipt of payment to show at border control. 

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Napa Valley, California

Notes coming soon...

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Palm Beach

Coming soon...

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San Francisco, California

Notes coming soon...

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Sea Ranch, California

Memorial Day weekend spent with good friends, featuring a not so false fire drill, lots of pretty hikes and a really heated game of Monopoly. Lucky for us, Sea Ranch is a mere 2 hours from San Francisco. That plus the spotty cell reception make it the perfect weekend getaway.

If you plan on visiting, here are some things you need to know...

Food + Drink
Within the community of Sea Ranch there is literally 1 option for dinner. The Black Point Grill at Sea Ranch Lodge has a stunning view, so if you want to eat out make an early bird reservation for the best views.

My advice? Load up on groceries at The Surf Market in the nearby town of Gualala (10 minutes by car) and whip up something spectacular at your rental. If you get a craving for pizza Upper Crust is good. Not great, but good.  

For breakfast, Two Fish Baking Company is a true gem. Get there early for the best selection. They have a wide selection of baked goods (I'm coming back for the sticky buns. And the morning buns.) and breakfast calzones. Come back later in the day and pick up a baguette for your cheese plate. Tip: Bread sells out quickly.You can call ahead and reserve a loaf.

If you fancy a ride, spend the day in Mendocino (An hour and thirty minutes by car). Trillium Cafe is an excellent choice for lunch (the chicken pot pie and kale caesar salad were tasty), though the service is a little slow. Stop at Good Life Cafe & Bakery to refuel with some coffee before the ride back to Sea Ranch.

Bed
While it is possible to book individual hotel rooms through The Sea Ranch Lodge, renting a home is the true magic of this place. For easy online booking, I suggest Sea Ranch Rentals. Tip: Make sure your rental includes linens, otherwise you'll need to pack your own. Also some units are pet friendly!

Play
There's not much to do here, and isn't that kind of the best? Plan to bring all those books and magazines you've been meaning to read, camp out in a comfy chair and get to it. If you're feeling restless, there's a heated lap pool and tennis courts. We loved hiking along the coast, checking out the seal pups and enjoying the stunning views.

If you're getting restless, Anderson Valley is 1.5 hours by car and boasts an impressive list of up and coming wineries and vineyards offering tours and tastings.

Etc.
The drive up to Sea Ranch is no joke. If you suffer from motion sickness, I'd suggest loading up on some Dramamine. You'll thank me later. 

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Shelter Island, NY

Shelter Island holds a special place in my heart. It's where we rented a home for 3 years, got married and spent countless days with good, good friends. Truly some of the best days of my life. If you're lucky enough to visit, you're lucky enough.

Bed
There aren't many lodging options, and even less in the off-season when most of the island goes into a deep and dark hibernation. If money is no object, check out Sunset Beach. 

The Chequit just got a major facelift and is walking distance from the ferry (albeit uphill...). 

The Shelter Island House (formerly La Maison Blanche) is a solid option, up the hill from Crescent Beach with petanque courts, a pool and beach cruisers. Fun fact; I spent my wedding night here! The on-site restaurant is tasty and affordable.

The Ram's Head Inn is housed in a beautiful, old estate. Tennis and small, private beach area.

The Pridwin is a classic, waterfront inn, offering lodging since 1927. Ask for a room facing the water and enjoy some killer sunsets. Tip: Their Wednesday BBQ's are legendary and are open to non-guests. 

There are a handful of B&B's on island: Azalea House, The Candlelite Inn, House on Chase Creek and Two South Ferry.

Food + Drink
Commander Cody's is a must for tender as hell ribs. The home-baked sweets are delicious. Service is slow, so be prepared to wait. You're on island time. They also have a seafood market with some of the freshest, local fish available. 

Vine Street Cafe is perfect for classics like Pasta Bolognese and Tuna Tartar. Don't miss the Calamari Salad. Tip: Go early for the prix-fixe menu.

18 Bay offers a nightly 4-course Chef's menu using produce from local farms. The pastas are always amazing. 

Salt Boat Bar & Grill is a great option for lunch. Good cocktails and raw bar selection.

Sweet Tomatoes for wood-fired pizzas and late night food. 

Marie Eiffel Market (formerly Redding's) is a neighborhood favorite for morning coffee and breakfast sandwiches (make sure you ask for it on a baguette). Grab lunch to go for a beach picnic.

Sunset Beach is perfect for rosé, fried artichokes and people watching. The music is amazing.  

Maria's Kitchen makes a mean breakfast burrito.

Stars Cafe in the Heights is a local institution for homemade pastries, coffee and breakfast sandwiches. Bonus: they're open year-round; a rarity in these parts!

Shelter Island Craft Brewery for local suds. Or, take a step back in time at The Dory (located on Main Street). Owner, Jack, is usually sitting at the bar.

The Tuck Shoppe for ice cream.

Play
This is the type of place where you can do nothing and somehow manage to have an excellent time. I suggest bringing a really good book, a picnic and hunkering down at Wades Beach (it's less of a scene than Sunset Beach) for the day. But, for those with a restless spirit...

Rent a paddleboard.

Drive over to Sagaponack for wine tasting at Wolffer Estate (their rosé is a Hamptons summer staple and sells out quickly!).

Take a Pilates class.

Renting a bike is key for exploring the island; rentals are available at the gas station and are a great way to get to the beach since permits are required for vehicles.

Hike through the Mashomack Preserve. 

Take a tour of the historic Sylvester Manor and check out their farm stand.

Etc.

Shelter Island is literally an island. It's accessible by 2 ferries, The North Ferry and The South Ferry. These two companies are independently owned and operated, and only accept cash. The North Ferry is within walking distance to the Greenport train station (trains run frequently from Penn Station) and it only costs $2 to ride the ferry as a walk-on. 

There is one taxi company on the whole island and things can get backed up during busy summer weekends. Plan ahead if you need a ride.

 

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Sonoma County, California

Notes coming soon...

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Tokyo

Food + Drink
Tokyo does high/low very well. And since this city is all about juxtaposition, it makes perfect sense...a handful of Michelin stars mingling with Grab & Go spots like 7-11 and Lawson Station (famed for it's Egg Salad Sandwich). So, where should you eat...

Like many travelers who watch too much TV, we wanted that quintessential Japanese sushi experience (Hello Jiro) without taking out a loan. Enter Sushi Ikkyu...no menu, no English, all good. Google Maps refuses to acknowledge it, so here's the address: 40-1 Kamiyama-cho Shibuya, +81 (0)3 3468 0019. Reservations mandatory. 

MOCH Bar in Harajuku was one of my favorite finds in the sense that I didn't know I was thirsty for a handcrafted melon mojito, but I was. This teeny, tiny bar is a one man show, and the care and consideration that goes into each cocktail is mind blowing. The cantaloupe for the melon mojito is hand juiced (yes, you can juice a cantaloupe!) and served in the most perfect glass. Even the ice cubes were a revelation. We went once mid-afternoon and again for a nightcap. 

Sakura Tei in Harajuku delivers an interactive experience and is literally a whole in the wall. Try your hand at Okonomiyaki (savory pancakes with your choice of filling) on the griddle with some pitchers of beer. A great budget-friendly dinner for a large group. 

Fuglen is a Norwegian coffee shop/café by day, and cocktail space by night. The ginger daiquiri was outstanding, but the hand carved ice-balls kind of stole the show.

Golden Gai in Shinjuku is a series of narrow alleyways with cupboard sized bars. Some are friendly to foreigners, some are not. Each has a distinct vibe and the only way to find the right place for you is to wander around, opening doors and peeking inside. We settled in nicely at Aces Music Salon...the music is good, the drinks are strong and the owner is nice enough. Tip: Most bars in Japan have a cover charge (anywhere from 3,000 to 10,000 yen) to help offset costs. It's annoying at first, but when you consider the fact that those in the service industry don't earn tips, it's not so bad. Aces Music Salon is one of the few bars in Golden Gai that does not have a cover charge. 

Perhaps the most convincing reason you need to visit Aces, is it's proximity to some of the tastiest fried chicken you'll ever eat. If it has a name, I don't know it, but it shares a wall with Aces. You'll find it. They offer a range of tempura skewers (shisito peppers, cod), but the real hit is the Kaarage, tasty, deep fried chicken morsels with a healthy dollop of mayo and a side of lemon. Best eaten late at night after many, many rounds of vodka & tonics.

There are plenty of Maisen outposts throughout the city (with many people waiting in line). Find the one nearest you and order the kurobuta tonkatsu (panko crusted pork filet). The delicious dipping sauce is also sold in bottles in their gift shop.

Spring Valley Brewery offers a great set lunch menu and beer flights. Definitely not a traditional Japanese experience, but worth exploring if you're in the area (Daikanyama)

Warasou was by far one of my favorite meals. The menu was entirely in Japanese, the waitress spoke no English and everything we tasted was perfect. You're rolling the dice here if you can't read Japanese (we can't), but if you're up for an adventure, you'll be rewarded. Must order: fried oysters, tuna sashimi, steamed mushroom salad, fried eggplant salad, crab fried rice. Reservations suggested (have your hotel call) and be sure to show your taxi driver the address:  和楽惣 (わらそう 広尾)
東京都南麻布5-1-1 プラザケイ1階

Shabusen in Ginza is a great option for lunch. Located on the basement level of the Ginza Core building, they have a well priced set lunch menu. Meals here are do it yourself, but the friendly staff is happy to offer instruction. 

TRUMPROOM in Shibuya is a multi level dance party perfect for people watching. The decor is over the top, but the fashion is better. The 10,000 yen cover charge includes 1 drink. 

Commune 246 in Omotesando is an outdoor food court with a little bit of everything from shaved Hawaiian ice to thai curries.

If you're craving a Western style breakfast, try Ivy Place (Daikanyama). The chocolate bread with ricotta cream and berry jam was really something else.

Lauderdale also offers a great Western style breakfast in a chic brasserie style space with outdoor seating. The french toast is heavenly, or grab a seat at the bar and enjoy a house made croissant and latte. (Roppongi)

If you're craving a burger (it happens), check out Arms Burger. It's a classic diner style burger with a perfectly crisped patty and gooey, melted American cheese. Plus, the cafe is dog friendly. After lunch, walk just a few yards to Little Nap Coffee Stand for a post-food coma pick me up. (Yoyogi Park)

There are a seemingly endless amount of department stores in Tokyo. And each one has a basement with over the top food stalls selling everything from finely packaged sweets to bowls of ramen. My favorite was the Minamoto Store in Ginza. Come hungry. The Kojun Building in Ginza has an impressive selection of Michelin quality restaurants, open for lunch. You'd be hard pressed to find a better value for menu in the area than Kaika Teppanyaki. The Japanese beef here is unbelievable. 

The Gonpachi Restaurant space was used as the inspiration for one of the many intricately choreographed fight scenes for Kill Bill; the food here is worth fighting for. The menu is tapas style and good for groups. Get the Moscow Mule made with homemade extra strong ginger soda. 

One of the most fascinating parts of Japanese culture is their ability to take concepts from other cultures, study them and then perfect them. With that said, you should feel no guilt about eating non-Japanese cuisine while traveling in Japan. I had the best French pastries and pizza in Japan!

Coffee
Coffee culture in Japan is such a big deal. Here's where to caffeinate. 

Mocha Coffee in Daikanyama is a must for their flavorful, Yemeni coffee. Served black, it's strong as hell, with a price tag to match. Expect to pay $8 for an iced coffee here.

Cafe Kitsuné in Aoyama serves hand-dripped coffee, cold brew and maccha drinks. They sell their coffee by the bag and also offer a variety of sweets and sandwiches.

Paddler's Coffee is a great place is refuel during a shopping spree in Shibuya serving Stumptown Coffee. 

Omotesando Koffee has a slick space with various locations throughout the city. 

Mister Donut (don't laugh) makes an excellent iced coffee that doesn't break the bank. And the donuts are divine. 

Bed
You likely won't be sleeping much in this town (I didn't), but you'll need a place to call home base either way. The Hotel Cerulean Tower has an unbeatable location about 5 minutes walk to the chaos of Shibuya station, and 10 minutes from the laid back neighborhood of Daikanyama (great shopping). The hotel won't win any design awards, but the rooms have great views of Tokyo and the concierge was very helpful in booking us some last minute dinner reservations. Tip: Make sure to ask for a bed with a feathertop. The mattresses here skew towards concrete.

Another more budget friendly option is the Granbell Hotel. Located a stone's throw from Shibuya Station, it's also a great jumping off point for exploring the city. 

If you want a different vibe, there are plenty of Air BnB options throughout Tokyo. But, for my money, having the assistance of a front desk/concierge is really helpful in a city like this. 

Play
The Mori Art Museum has an interesting collection of contemporary and modern art in a central location. The gift shop is excellent. Buy the pass with access to Tokyo City View, an observation deck with 360 views of the city. The Sky Deck is an open air viewing area, open when weather permits.

Nezu Museum is great if you want a little moment of zen. The museum itself wasn't interesting to me (I'd suggest going only if you have a supreme interest in ancient Japanese pottery), but I loved the outdoor gardens. That alone is worth the price of entry.

The Daikanyama neighborhood was heaven on earth to me. The buildings here are low, the overall vibe is sleepy (shops don't open until 11) and everyone is really, really cool. You can't visit this area without stepping foot in T-Site. This giant bookstore/gift shop literally has something for everyone. It's like Barnes & Noble went to study abroad and became unrecognizably hip. Tip: The upstairs lounge Anjin serves early (pancakes and cappuccino) til late (mojitos and veggie tempura) and is the perfect place to take a load off. 

Shopping is a huge part of the allure of Tokyo. Retail culture here is amazing, and the assortment of wares is unbelievable. Some favorite shops...

Plage (also in Daikanyama) has a great range of women's clothing and accessories. 

Tenoha has a great selection of housewares, cosmetics, pantry items and women's clothing. Their on-site restaurant is worth a visit.

Daikanyama UES for raw denim.

The Common Tempo for a great selection of international brands, and a curated mix of accessories for Men and Women.

Saturdays Surf NYC is not a Japanese brand, but the Japanese knack for service is alive and well at their coffee counter. Great place to refuel and chat up the charming baristas. 

Hollywood Ranch Market has a great selection of Men's and Women's clothing. The shop is small, but packs a big punch. 

Nimes and Honoré have lovely basics with a French twist.

Okura for classic, indigo-dyed garments. 

Found Muji in Aoyama is a concept store featuring items from around the globe that fit the Muji esthetic. 

Tokyu Hands requires at minimum an hour for browsing. This multi level craft mecca has literally everything you never knew you needed. Excellent place to stock up on loads of souvenirs.

Shimokitazawa is an area popular with the hipster set in Tokyo. This area is known for terrific vintage shopping (with reasonable prices!) and cheap eats. It's a little outside the city center, but easily accessible by train.

Other favorites include United Arrows, Kiddy Land (for all things Hello Kitty), Loft (great place to pick up souvenirs), Muji (yes, we have this in the States, but it's just so much better here. Stock up on cosmetics and food items unavailable in the US),  Super A Market in Aoyama (outlet prices on amazing designer pieces), Hankyu Men's (high-end Men's department store with a super chic Monocle Cafe in the basement). 

It's called the Robot Restaurant, though eating here would be a crime considering the endless food options at your fingertips. It's all about the experience. Bikini-clad women fighting with robotic sharks and cartoon pandas? Yep. I guess this is what being on drugs feels like? Nothing makes sense and everything is amazing. Don't fight it, just go with it. Tip: Tickets are purchased in advance online, but you need to go 30 minutes before the show starts to claim your seats. Get there early...you want to be in the front row. 

Tsukiji Fish Market has become a huge draw for tourists and if you want to see it for yourself, it will require some diligent planning. Only 120 visitors are allowed into the tuna auctions daily (closed Sunday) which begin at 5am. In order to secure a spot in one of the two groups of 60, people start queueing up at 2am. I'd suggest trying your luck early in the trip when jet lag has gotten the better of you. Otherwise, just come to see the market itself. It's open to the public, though most stalls close up shop between 10 and 11AM. Make sure you have sushi for breakfast here! There are plenty of great places and you really can't go wrong. 

For a dose of culture, check out Meiji Shrine. It's a calm oasis of peace in the otherwise hectic area of Harajuku. Tip: Come on a Sunday morning when wedding ceremonies in traditional dress take place. 

No trip to Tokyo is complete without an evening of Karaoke. If Karaoke-Kan is good enough for Bill Murray & Scarlett Johannson, it's good enough for you! Get a private room and press the intercom whenever you need a refill. Tambourines are provided free of charge. 

Etc.
The most important piece of advice I can offer is to get a pocket wifi system! Japan is a large city and few things are labeled in English. If you don't have an International data plan ($$$), a pocket wifi is essential for getting around. Pocket wifi systems are available to rent through Japan Experience and can be picked up at the airport, or dropped off at your hotel for no additional charge. A prepaid envelope is included in the package and all you have to do is drop it in a mailbox on the date of your return. So. EASY.

The train system in Tokyo is extensive and makes exploring this vast city almost effortless. Your first few trips will be confusing, but once you get the hang of the system it's actually quite intuitive. If you plan on using the train a lot, get a Suica or Pasmo card. These are pre-paid cards that allow you to skip the ticket machines. 

Taxis are also widely available and much less expensive than I expected. For hard to find locations, a taxi is the way to go. Tip: Make sure you have your concierge write down the name of your destination and hotel on a piece of paper to show to the taxi driver. 

When riding in a taxi, don't hand the money directly to the driver. Instead, place it on the small tray. Conversely, most taxis accept credit card. Also, never open a taxi door. Allow the driver to open it for you. They take great pride in their work.

On tipping: We are trained to tip for exemplary service, but in Japan, excellent service comes standard and tipping is seen as offensive. It's a difficult concept to embrace, but a few sincere "domo origato"s will suffice. 

The language barrier is a part of the fun here, but for ordering in restaurants we found the Google Translator a true godsend. 

Some of the larger department stores offer tax-fee shopping for foreigners. If you'd like to take advantage of this benefit, you must have your passport handy. 

No matter what you do, do not leave Tokyo without purchasing a box of Tokyo Banana Cookies.  They are sold at the airport, and in some train station locations with a limit of 5 boxes per person. These tasty little snacks are the perfect gift to bring back home for your co-workers, friends and family. You'll thank me. 

____________________________________________________________________

Note: A handful of these photos were taken by my dear friend, Erica McCartney and are used with her permission. I highly suggest traveling with a professional photographer, if you can swing it. 

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Further Afield: Outside Tokyo

Notes coming soon...

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@LADULCIVIDA
What’s not to LO❤️E??? 😍
Spent today working from this happy spot. It’s been a super busy month for me work-wise and this was a definite upgrade from my usual coffee shop desk 🤓 Freelancing is so different from my time in the corporate fashion world, and the cliche is true...you’ll spend 80 hours a week working for yourself to avoid working 40 hours a week for someone else. But being able to have the flexibility to work remotely and stay inspired still makes me pinch myself. Don’t get me wrong, it’s still work, but it’s much more fun this way ⚡️✨💫
To quote my pal @anyeske, remember when it was warm? LOL YEA ME NEITHER.
My Friday looks absolutely nothing like this, but big shout out to @here.mag for reminding me this AM what a dream this trip was. If you want to see the full visual diary I put together for @here.mag the link is in my bio ✨💫

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