Food + Drink
Tokyo does high/low very well. And since this city is all about juxtaposition, it makes perfect sense...a handful of Michelin stars mingling with Grab & Go spots like 7-11 and Lawson Station (famed for it's Egg Salad Sandwich). So, where should you eat...
Like many travelers who watch too much TV, we wanted that quintessential Japanese sushi experience (Hello Jiro) without taking out a loan. Enter Sushi Ikkyu...no menu, no English, all good. Google Maps refuses to acknowledge it, so here's the address: 40-1 Kamiyama-cho Shibuya, +81 (0)3 3468 0019. Reservations mandatory.
MOCH Bar in Harajuku was one of my favorite finds in the sense that I didn't know I was thirsty for a handcrafted melon mojito, but I was. This teeny, tiny bar is a one man show, and the care and consideration that goes into each cocktail is mind blowing. The cantaloupe for the melon mojito is hand juiced (yes, you can juice a cantaloupe!) and served in the most perfect glass. Even the ice cubes were a revelation. We went once mid-afternoon and again for a nightcap.
Sakura Tei in Harajuku delivers an interactive experience and is literally a whole in the wall. Try your hand at Okonomiyaki (savory pancakes with your choice of filling) on the griddle with some pitchers of beer. A great budget-friendly dinner for a large group.
Fuglen is a Norwegian coffee shop/cafรฉ by day, and cocktail space by night. The ginger daiquiri was outstanding, but the hand carved ice-balls kind of stole the show.
Golden Gai in Shinjuku is a series of narrow alleyways with cupboard sized bars. Some are friendly to foreigners, some are not. Each has a distinct vibe and the only way to find the right place for you is to wander around, opening doors and peeking inside. We settled in nicely at Aces Music Salon...the music is good, the drinks are strong and the owner is nice enough. Tip: Most bars in Japan have a cover charge (anywhere from 3,000 to 10,000 yen) to help offset costs. It's annoying at first, but when you consider the fact that those in the service industry don't earn tips, it's not so bad. Aces Music Salon is one of the few bars in Golden Gai that does not have a cover charge.
Perhaps the most convincing reason you need to visit Aces, is it's proximity to some of the tastiest fried chicken you'll ever eat. If it has a name, I don't know it, but it shares a wall with Aces. You'll find it. They offer a range of tempura skewers (shisito peppers, cod), but the real hit is the Kaarage, tasty, deep fried chicken morsels with a healthy dollop of mayo and a side of lemon. Best eaten late at night after many, many rounds of vodka & tonics.
There are plenty of Maisen outposts throughout the city (with many people waiting in line). Find the one nearest you and order the kurobuta tonkatsu (panko crusted pork filet). The delicious dipping sauce is also sold in bottles in their gift shop.
Spring Valley Brewery offers a great set lunch menu and beer flights. Definitely not a traditional Japanese experience, but worth exploring if you're in the area (Daikanyama)
Warasou was by far one of my favorite meals. The menu was entirely in Japanese, the waitress spoke no English and everything we tasted was perfect. You're rolling the dice here if you can't read Japanese (we can't), but if you're up for an adventure, you'll be rewarded. Must order: fried oysters, tuna sashimi, steamed mushroom salad, fried eggplant salad, crab fried rice. Reservations suggested (have your hotel call) and be sure to show your taxi driver the address: ๅๆฅฝๆฃ (ใใใใ ๅบๅฐพ)
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Shabusen in Ginza is a great option for lunch. Located on the basement level of the Ginza Core building, they have a well priced set lunch menu. Meals here are do it yourself, but the friendly staff is happy to offer instruction.
TRUMPROOM in Shibuya is a multi level dance party perfect for people watching. The decor is over the top, but the fashion is better. The 10,000 yen cover charge includes 1 drink.
Commune 246 in Omotesando is an outdoor food court with a little bit of everything from shaved Hawaiian ice to thai curries.
If you're craving a Western style breakfast, try Ivy Place (Daikanyama). The chocolate bread with ricotta cream and berry jam was really something else.
Lauderdale also offers a great Western style breakfast in a chic brasserie style space with outdoor seating. The french toast is heavenly, or grab a seat at the bar and enjoy a house made croissant and latte. (Roppongi)
If you're craving a burger (it happens), check out Arms Burger. It's a classic diner style burger with a perfectly crisped patty and gooey, melted American cheese. Plus, the cafe is dog friendly. After lunch, walk just a few yards to Little Nap Coffee Stand for a post-food coma pick me up. (Yoyogi Park)
There are a seemingly endless amount of department stores in Tokyo. And each one has a basement with over the top food stalls selling everything from finely packaged sweets to bowls of ramen. My favorite was the Minamoto Store in Ginza. Come hungry. The Kojun Building in Ginza has an impressive selection of Michelin quality restaurants, open for lunch. You'd be hard pressed to find a better value for menu in the area than Kaika Teppanyaki. The Japanese beef here is unbelievable.
The Gonpachi Restaurant space was used as the inspiration for one of the many intricately choreographed fight scenes for Kill Bill; the food here is worth fighting for. The menu is tapas style and good for groups. Get the Moscow Mule made with homemade extra strong ginger soda.
One of the most fascinating parts of Japanese culture is their ability to take concepts from other cultures, study them and then perfect them. With that said, you should feel no guilt about eating non-Japanese cuisine while traveling in Japan. I had the best French pastries and pizza in Japan!
Coffee
Coffee culture in Japan is such a big deal. Here's where to caffeinate.
Mocha Coffee in Daikanyama is a must for their flavorful, Yemeni coffee. Served black, it's strong as hell, with a price tag to match. Expect to pay $8 for an iced coffee here.
Cafe Kitsunรฉ in Aoyama serves hand-dripped coffee, cold brew and maccha drinks. They sell their coffee by the bag and also offer a variety of sweets and sandwiches.
Paddler's Coffee is a great place is refuel during a shopping spree in Shibuya serving Stumptown Coffee.
Omotesando Koffee has a slick space with various locations throughout the city.
Mister Donut (don't laugh) makes an excellent iced coffee that doesn't break the bank. And the donuts are divine.
Bed
You likely won't be sleeping much in this town (I didn't), but you'll need a place to call home base either way. The Hotel Cerulean Tower has an unbeatable location about 5 minutes walk to the chaos of Shibuya station, and 10 minutes from the laid back neighborhood of Daikanyama (great shopping). The hotel won't win any design awards, but the rooms have great views of Tokyo and the concierge was very helpful in booking us some last minute dinner reservations. Tip: Make sure to ask for a bed with a feathertop. The mattresses here skew towards concrete.
Another more budget friendly option is the Granbell Hotel. Located a stone's throw from Shibuya Station, it's also a great jumping off point for exploring the city.
If you want a different vibe, there are plenty of Air BnB options throughout Tokyo. But, for my money, having the assistance of a front desk/concierge is really helpful in a city like this.
Play
The Mori Art Museum has an interesting collection of contemporary and modern art in a central location. The gift shop is excellent. Buy the pass with access to Tokyo City View, an observation deck with 360 views of the city. The Sky Deck is an open air viewing area, open when weather permits.
Nezu Museum is great if you want a little moment of zen. The museum itself wasn't interesting to me (I'd suggest going only if you have a supreme interest in ancient Japanese pottery), but I loved the outdoor gardens. That alone is worth the price of entry.
The Daikanyama neighborhood was heaven on earth to me. The buildings here are low, the overall vibe is sleepy (shops don't open until 11) and everyone is really, really cool. You can't visit this area without stepping foot in T-Site. This giant bookstore/gift shop literally has something for everyone. It's like Barnes & Noble went to study abroad and became unrecognizably hip. Tip: The upstairs lounge Anjin serves early (pancakes and cappuccino) til late (mojitos and veggie tempura) and is the perfect place to take a load off.
Shopping is a huge part of the allure of Tokyo. Retail culture here is amazing, and the assortment of wares is unbelievable. Some favorite shops...
Plage (also in Daikanyama) has a great range of women's clothing and accessories.
Tenoha has a great selection of housewares, cosmetics, pantry items and women's clothing. Their on-site restaurant is worth a visit.
Daikanyama UES for raw denim.
The Common Tempo for a great selection of international brands, and a curated mix of accessories for Men and Women.
Saturdays Surf NYC is not a Japanese brand, but the Japanese knack for service is alive and well at their coffee counter. Great place to refuel and chat up the charming baristas.
Hollywood Ranch Market has a great selection of Men's and Women's clothing. The shop is small, but packs a big punch.
Nimes and Honorรฉ have lovely basics with a French twist.
Okura for classic, indigo-dyed garments.
Found Muji in Aoyama is a concept store featuring items from around the globe that fit the Muji esthetic.
Tokyu Hands requires at minimum an hour for browsing. This multi level craft mecca has literally everything you never knew you needed. Excellent place to stock up on loads of souvenirs.
Shimokitazawa is an area popular with the hipster set in Tokyo. This area is known for terrific vintage shopping (with reasonable prices!) and cheap eats. It's a little outside the city center, but easily accessible by train.
Other favorites include United Arrows, Kiddy Land (for all things Hello Kitty), Loft (great place to pick up souvenirs), Muji (yes, we have this in the States, but it's just so much better here. Stock up on cosmetics and food items unavailable in the US), Super A Market in Aoyama (outlet prices on amazing designer pieces), Hankyu Men's (high-end Men's department store with a super chic Monocle Cafe in the basement).
It's called the Robot Restaurant, though eating here would be a crime considering the endless food options at your fingertips. It's all about the experience. Bikini-clad women fighting with robotic sharks and cartoon pandas? Yep. I guess this is what being on drugs feels like? Nothing makes sense and everything is amazing. Don't fight it, just go with it. Tip: Tickets are purchased in advance online, but you need to go 30 minutes before the show starts to claim your seats. Get there early...you want to be in the front row.
Tsukiji Fish Market has become a huge draw for tourists and if you want to see it for yourself, it will require some diligent planning. Only 120 visitors are allowed into the tuna auctions daily (closed Sunday) which begin at 5am. In order to secure a spot in one of the two groups of 60, people start queueing up at 2am. I'd suggest trying your luck early in the trip when jet lag has gotten the better of you. Otherwise, just come to see the market itself. It's open to the public, though most stalls close up shop between 10 and 11AM. Make sure you have sushi for breakfast here! There are plenty of great places and you really can't go wrong.
For a dose of culture, check out Meiji Shrine. It's a calm oasis of peace in the otherwise hectic area of Harajuku. Tip: Come on a Sunday morning when wedding ceremonies in traditional dress take place.
No trip to Tokyo is complete without an evening of Karaoke. If Karaoke-Kan is good enough for Bill Murray & Scarlett Johannson, it's good enough for you! Get a private room and press the intercom whenever you need a refill. Tambourines are provided free of charge.
Etc.
The most important piece of advice I can offer is to get a pocket wifi system! Japan is a large city and few things are labeled in English. If you don't have an International data plan ($$$), a pocket wifi is essential for getting around. Pocket wifi systems are available to rent through Japan Experience and can be picked up at the airport, or dropped off at your hotel for no additional charge. A prepaid envelope is included in the package and all you have to do is drop it in a mailbox on the date of your return. So. EASY.
The train system in Tokyo is extensive and makes exploring this vast city almost effortless. Your first few trips will be confusing, but once you get the hang of the system it's actually quite intuitive. If you plan on using the train a lot, get a Suica or Pasmo card. These are pre-paid cards that allow you to skip the ticket machines.
Taxis are also widely available and much less expensive than I expected. For hard to find locations, a taxi is the way to go. Tip: Make sure you have your concierge write down the name of your destination and hotel on a piece of paper to show to the taxi driver.
When riding in a taxi, don't hand the money directly to the driver. Instead, place it on the small tray. Conversely, most taxis accept credit card. Also, never open a taxi door. Allow the driver to open it for you. They take great pride in their work.
On tipping: We are trained to tip for exemplary service, but in Japan, excellent service comes standard and tipping is seen as offensive. It's a difficult concept to embrace, but a few sincere "domo origato"s will suffice.
The language barrier is a part of the fun here, but for ordering in restaurants we found the Google Translator a true godsend.
Some of the larger department stores offer tax-fee shopping for foreigners. If you'd like to take advantage of this benefit, you must have your passport handy.
No matter what you do, do not leave Tokyo without purchasing a box of Tokyo Banana Cookies. They are sold at the airport, and in some train station locations with a limit of 5 boxes per person. These tasty little snacks are the perfect gift to bring back home for your co-workers, friends and family. You'll thank me.
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Note: A handful of these photos were taken by my dear friend, Erica McCartney and are used with her permission. I highly suggest traveling with a professional photographer, if you can swing it.
