The Far & Near

Notes coming soon...

We spent a lovely weekend in the Bahamas celebrating the marriage of friends. We were admittedly lazy and spent most of our time on the beach, rather than exploring, but if you find yourself in the New Providence area check out The Island House. The property is brand new, and while they're still working out some of the kinks the staff is gracious and warm. The rooms were spacious and lovely, with bathrooms larger than most New York City apartments. The Coffee Bar serves Intelligentsia coffee, home-baked pastries and curry chicken sandwiches for lunch. The Mahogany House  has an eclectic menu with something for everyone. The pizzas are shareable and perfect for lunch. For dinner, do not miss Shima. Some of the most delicious Thai food I've had and I still dream of their spicy green curry. Reservations a must. 

Note: The Island House has no beach access, but offers a massive pool for frequent dipping. 

It wasn't a part of the plan to go to Hawaii. I had always been staunchly against it on the grounds that it was too touristy and unjustly far. If I was going to sit on a plane for 13 hours I wanted to feel transported...

But the travel gods had other plans for us. So, after a failed attempt to get to Corsica (Tip: Make sure your passport isn't any where close to expiring if you want to go to France...), there was Hawaii. I'd never been so happy to see a piña colada in all my life.

Food + Drink
Merriman's was doing farm to table before it was a thing. Go for brunch and get a Lilikoi mimosa. Treat yoself.

Pueo's Osteria for Italian highlighting local ingredients. The caprese using Waimea tomatoes is delicious.

I wouldn't go out of my way for Hawaiian Style Cafe, but if you're in the area and in need of pancakes the size of your face, this is the spot.

Punalu'u Bake Shop credits itself as the southern most bakery in the US. I like it for malasadas and kona coffee ice cream. 

The Resident's Beach House has an unbeatable location on the beach. Enjoy your BBQ pork pizza with your toes in the sand. 

Beach Tree is the perfect place to have a sundowner and share a pupu platter with someone you love. 

Ulu Ocean Grill is great for a special occasion. Still thinking about that Tuna Poke...

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Four Seasons Hualalai is as good as it gets. If you're celebrating any kind of special occasion, this place really takes the cake. The service is out of this world and the views are incredible. At the very least, stop by for a cocktail. 

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Waipio Valley for the black sand beaches and waterfalls.

Hawaii Volcanoes National Park is a great day trip. You can hike through a lava crater that leads to a baby rainforest. Tip: Get here early, it's a popular attraction. 

Ka Lae is the southern most tip of the United States. The winds here are so strong that the trees grow sideways. Come and watch the locals fishing for ulua off the high cliffs (great article here about these guys). There are some grottos and fishing holes if you're brave enough to take the plunge. Tip: The green sands beach is just beyond this area, but you'll need a 4x4 vehicle to access it.

There is great snorkeling all over the island. We loved swimming with sea turtles and rainbow fish. Tip: Pack your own snorkel travel set and save on renting. 

There's a little bit of magic in the air in Big Sur. It could be the smell of California sage, or the ancient redwoods standing guard. Or maybe it's that staggering drive along Highway 1, matched only by the breathtaking view of this rugged Pacific coastline. Whatever it is, I want more.

Bed
There's not much in the way of lodging in Big Sur, but what it lacks in quantity it makes up for in variety. From the bare bones to the super luxe, there's literally something for everyone. 

If money is no object, Post Ranch Inn is more than willing to oblige. The aesthetic here is modern treehouse and the water views are truly spectacular. Tip: The deck is open to non-guests for lunch and cocktails.

Ventana Inn & Spa (directly across the street from Post Ranch Inn) is slightly less expensive, though still on the high end of the spectrum. We liked the cozy rooms and Japanese hot baths. Daily guided hikes (the property is 243 acres!) and yoga are offered. If you're feeling brave, visit the clothing optional pool (the property is Adults only FYI). Shuttle service is offered to nearby restaurants. Tip: Wine & cheese hour is typically a throwaway amenity at some hotels, but not here. They pull out all the stops featuring delicious nibbles and pours from local purveyors. 

Glen Oaks Big Sur is under the radar and I hope it stays that way. Individual cabins are available to rent, in addition to some smaller rooms in this converted motor lodge. The rooms are mod with a decidedly Midcentury Modern twist. Think Don Draper goes camping.

Ripplewood Resort is an affordable option offering rustic riverside cabins. Tip: Breakfast here is a local favorite.

Treebones is capitalizing on the glamping trend. Yurts and campsites available, bathrooms are shared. 

Deetjens is cozy, quaint and popular; book well in advance or hope for a cancellation. Tip: Breakfast here is outstanding. The Mexican eggs are tasty and shareable.

Food + Drink
Big Sur Bakery gets a lot of buzz and rightfully so. Our dinner here was pricey, but delicious. If pizza matters to you, come here: They're excellent and change frequently. Also great for pastries and strong coffee in the morning. Tip: Ask for a table outside and bring a sweater.

Open for lunch & dinner, the Big Sur Roadhouse has an eclectic menu highlighting seasonal ingredients. The homemade ice creams are delicious. 

Nepenthe  (Greek for "Isle of No Care") is a Big Sur institution, serving food & drink since 1949. The Fassett family continues to own and operate this waterfront establishment, perched high on a hillside with sweeping views of the Pacific. I like it for drinks and appetizers. 

There are a handful of general stores (including one at Ripplewood Resort) to stock up on picnic supplies, though prices are slightly steep. They also sell camping essentials like firewood and bug repellant. 

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Big Sur is all about natural beauty, so plan to spend the majority of your time outside. The most famous view in Big Sur according to Instagram,is McWay Falls in Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park. Visiting during off-peak times in advised or be prepared to do battle with a selfie stick or two. Tip: For a less trafficked experience, check out the Ewoldsen Trail. A 4.6 mile loop with top of the world views of Big Sur, this is a great way to see a lot of Big Sur in a short amount of time.

April to December is whale watching season. Grab a seat on the deck of Post Ranch Inn and watch the world go by. 

Highway One is unlike any other roadway in the world. Give yourself plenty of time to enjoy this ride, especially on weekends when traffic can be heavy. The road is littered with vista points; pull over and take it all in. 

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Poison Oak is rampant in this region of California, so be on the look out. In drier areas, keep your eyes peeled for rattlesnakes.

Gas is expensive in Big Sur, so fill up ahead of time. 

What can I say about Blackberry Farm that hasn't already been said? It lives up to the hype on every level and is a study in true Southern hospitality. Nestled in the foothills of the Great Smoky Mountains, the views are stunning, especially in the early morning when the mist is rising. It's been a great pleasure of mine to spend time here with family and friends, and it's a place I always leave feeling rested and relaxed. I'll let the photos do the talking...

There really isn't a way to put Chile, and more importantly, Patagonia into words. The pictures don't do it justice and there's just no way to explain exactly how blue (and sometimes green) that water really is. It's Mother Nature exactly as she was meant to be. Not to get super crunchy, but it's impossible to leave this place without feeling changed by how powerful and amazing nature is. And you can't help but feeling a little badly about all those times you didn't recycle your hummus container. Coming here was a true privilege and as someone who lives in a city of millions, it was a strange and welcome feeling to sit and enjoy the silence and the solitude. I was reminded again and again just how big and beautiful this planet is.

Bed
Lodging options in Patagonia run the gamut from bare bones to ultra-luxe. If you're determined to rough it, a rifugio is the way to go. These are located within the national parks and are very basic. Think dorm room in the woods. If you're planning to make use of one, best to book ahead.

Otherwise, there are some truly special eco options that are well worth the price. We loved Patagonia Camp within the Torres Del Paine national  park area. Guests stay in individual yurts complete with modern bathrooms, private terraces overlooking Lake Toro and a skylight for stargazing. Meals were served in the main lodge and always delicious, featuring local ingredients like king crab and Patagonian lamb. Sister property Viña Matetic provides all wines, included with your stay. 

The second part of our trip was spent in the Aysén region of Southern Chile. We stayed at Magic Waters Fishing Lodge for several days of fly fishing in some of the most beautiful streams and rivers I've ever seen.  Eduardo, his wife and two adorable children own and operate the lodge providing all transportation, meals and endless fishing. Dinners were prepared each evening by Eduardo's mother and everyone would sit around telling fish tales. They were the perfect hosts and made us feel so welcome. The weather can be extreme and high winds make casting difficult; but all in it's such an authentic experience. For sure our favorite day was spent on horseback with a gaucho, fishing and enjoying a lamb asado on the banks of the river.

Food + Drink
Meals are typically included with your lodging since there are not many options for off-property dining. If you plan to do lengthy hikes during the day, I'd suggest packing some energy bars or trail mix. Lunches are served, but you may get peckish in between. 

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There are countless ways to spend your time here...ride horses with a gaucho, try white water rafting, go fly-fishing in some of the most pristine waters on the planet, challenge yourself with a hike to the base of Torres Del Paine. Every day is a new adventure here. 

I wish we had more time to explore Antartica. Flights are available from Punta Arenas. 

Getting There
Pack light...you'll be in transit for the bulk of your trip and schlepping around a heavy bag sucks. To get to Patagonia, you'll likely fly into Santiago, Chile and then take a connecting flight to Punta Arenas (3.5 hours). From there, it's a 3 hour drive to Puerto Natales, and then another hour and half to Parque Torres Del Paine. There are also buses and ferry options, but we found this way to be the quickest. More info available here.

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This trip was a beast to plan, partly because we were working within a somewhat tight timeline and wanted to see a lot. Traveling to the end of the world takes time. Don't feel bad if you can't cram it all in the first go round. We were there for 10 days and barely scratched the surface. Guess we'll have to go back! 

If you're tight on time, flying is the best way to get around within Chile. Sky Airlines and Lan offer many regional flights, but you need to book well in advance. 

Seasons are reversed here...our Winter is their Summer. In the lower half of the country, temperatures are always fairly mild, but you'll want to pack layers for hikes and fishing. It gets chilly in the evenings. Best part of all is the sun doesn't set until around 11pm! We had some incredible moonrises in this part of the country. 

Most people might have trouble locating Corsica on a map, I'm perfectly content with it staying a bit off the radar. The locals are too. We spent our honeymoon here, exploring what felt like a hidden gem in every sense. Every meal was a revelation, every beach prettier than the last. 

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La Plage was divine. The sister property of the ultra spendy/ultra chic Casadelmar, La Plage is located just across the bay of Porto Vecchio on the Benedettu peninsula. Palapa huts along the beach reminded us of Tulum and the lush mountains looked like Thailand. Tip: A speedboat shuttle is offered to Casadelmar. Pop over for a midday cocktail.

U Palazzu Serenu is located in the charming hillside town of Oletta in a 17th-century palace. Restrained and modern, the rooms and public spaces are chic. There's a lap pool for sunny afternoons. Tip: Stroll through the tiny town around dusk before stopping at A Forge for dinner while the sun sets. 

Hotel Solemare has an excellent location in the marina of Bonifacio. It's a short walk up through the citadel for a variety of dinner options. The view of the boats in the harbor at night is so pretty. 

About 20 minutes drive outside of Bonifacio proper is Hotel U Capu Biancu. Located up in the hills with a stunning view overlooking the Gulfo Santa Manza, they have a small private (rocky) beach. Breakfast on the terrace is lovely.

Food + Drink
For lunch, you can't do better than Tamarriciu at Palmobaggia beach. It was truly one of our favorite meals in Corsica (where there was no shortage of delicious Medieterran food...). We will not forget the tuna burger, lobster ravioli, out toes firmly in the sand and a bottle of local rosé. For dessert, grab an ice cream pop from the vending machine. May I suggest Pistachio?

Kissing Pigs is a bit of an institution in Bonifacio. If you want a quick, affordable meal, it's a decent option. 

Restaurant Stella D'Oro offers a traditional, Corsican style menu. Tip: The menu of the day is a price friendly option.

Restaurant du Club Nautique was a bit off the typical tourist path. We loved the prawn pasta after a long day of traveling. The service was excellent and warm.

Le Pirate was a delicious detour in the small seaside town of Erlabunga. Tables here are right on the lip of the ocean. Tip: Go for lunch when the Michelin starred restaurant is a bit more casual. 

Restaurant Ranch'O Plage is an excellent choice for dinner. The beachside location is the best. Get the oysters.

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Corsica is easily accessible via Paris or Nice. If you have the time, I'd suggest flying in and out of different airports. We flew into Figari and out of Ajaccio allowing ourselves time along the way to explore the many villages and beaches.  Renting a car is essential for getting around. Tip: Be sure to book an automatic if that's your preference. Otherwise, you may end up with a manual!

Google maps doesn't work in some of the more remote areas of Corsica. Try renting a GPS, or printing out directions beforehand. 

English is not widely spoken. Brush up on basic French phrases before your trip. 

Lastly, Corsica is a French territory, and under French law travel in and out of the country must occur within 3 months of your passport expiration date. I sadly learned of this rule the hard way after being denied boarding onto a flight for Paris (and ultimately Corsica) for our 1 year wedding anniversary. Lesson learned: every country has different rules regarding passports. Check before you go! 

Our time in Kyoto was short, but in truth, felt appropriate. There's a lot to see here (the requisite shrines and temples mainly), but it was the quiet moments, like a rare Geisha sighting late at night and a frozen in time coffee shop run by an spry 80 year old man with an impressive collection of vintage radios that made Kyoto memorable for me. These experiences made me remember why it is I love to travel and why every destination deserves a closer look.

Food + Drink
Though most places on the river look inviting, they're mainly tourist spots catering to Western tastes. If you want something a bit more authentic, you'll have to wander off the main drag. The Gion District has a handful of restaurants and bars that feel much more authentically Japanese.

Gion Niti is top of my list for atmosphere, service and food. Tucked away on a side street and impossible to find, the bar is decorated in gilded rice paper and is absolutely stunning. The drinks here are expertly mixed and are well worth the bar charge. The menu has a wide range of options (delicious Kobe beef starter), but you'd be silly not to order the pizza. Yes, I know, pizza in Japan. But this was truly some of the best I've ever had...and I've had a lot (in Italy and beyond!). Excellent wines by the glass, no easy feat in Japan, and range of Japanese whiskeys.

Bar K6 was the perfect place to kick off our evening. The bartenders sport tuxedos and take their drinks very seriously, though the decor might suggest otherwise. Cave de K downstairs is a must for any whiskey lover.

Jiki Miyazawa is a traditional kappō dining experience (when diners line up in a row facing the chef) and one that will leave you breathless. Our meal was fantastic and the chef is certainly deserving of his Michelin star. The star of the show is a lovely piece of broiled sesame tofu that bursts open like a savory creme brûlée. A perfect kaiseki experience. Reservations are essential. 

Kyoto is known for tofu, and there's no better place to sample it then Tofu Cuisine Matsugae. Popular with locals, this spot is a bit under the radar and can be hard to find. Solider on. The green tea and soba flavored tofu make it worth it. Set lunch menu available. 

Yamamoto Menzo is famous for udon, with a queue to prove it. If the line is shorter at Okakita (literally right next door), go there. They're both excellent. 

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Villa Aneyakoji was a lovely, modern ryokan experience. The service here was top notch. Tip: The penthouse was a great value; it's a twin room, but there's a huge terrace overlooking the city. They'll deliver breakfast to your terrace upon request, though for the price you can definitely find a better meal. 

The Ritz Carlton Kyoto is brand new (built in 2014) and has a killer, riverside location. The service was outstanding (the concierge helped us book an incredible, last minute dinner reservation) and the common spaces were beautifully designed. Our room didn't have a river view, but was nonetheless excellent (hello teak shower!!). Don't miss breakfast, complete with Pierre Herme pastries (I had 4). Tip: Book a massage. The spa experience here is truly wonderful. 

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Kinkauji, also known as the Golden Temple, is arguably one of the most popular Kyoto attractions. Expect crowds. The temple itself is beautiful, gold and glittery. Bonus: there's a tea garden here selling snacks and drinks. 

The Bamboo Forest is a lovely and tranquil spot, despite the crowds of people. Go early (around 7AM) if you want to have a moment of actual zen.

The Tenryu-ji Temple is accessible from the Bamboo forest and is worth a visit if you're in the area. 

The Philosopher's Walk is a peaceful way to see Kyoto. The path is lined with cute shops, restaurants and cafes making this an enjoyable place for a mid-afternoon stroll. 

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Resign yourself to the fact that seeing EVERY. SINGLE. SHRINE. might not be 100% realistic. Kyoto is far more spread out than I anticipated, and we had to whittle our list down significantly. Most shrines and temples are at least 40 minutes from the city center. Public transportation (trains and buses) is available, but given our limited time, we opted to take taxis. Looking back, we probably should have hired a guide/driver (something we rarely do). If time is an issue, I'd consider this as an option. 

Kyoto is famous for Geisha, though there are a lot of fakes walking around. If you want to spot a real one, it will require patience. We got very lucky and were literally in the right place at the right time. No matter what, if you do see one, be respectful. This is a time honored tradition and not a tourist attraction. 

In truth, we probably picked the worst time to visit Kyoto (late summer) when the weather made it nearly impossible to enjoy all of the outdoor attractions. If you can, come during Spring or Fall when the cherry blossoms and autumn colors make Kyoto come alive.

I touched on this in my Tokyo notes, but unless you are planning to do a fair bit of touring around Japan, I'm not totally sure the JR Pass makes sense. Getting it was a bit of a headache, and requires a voucher exchange at the ticket office before you can actually use it. If Kyoto is your only destination outside of Japan, you might be better off purchasing tickets while in Japan. 

The amazing thing about living in Northern California is the amount of options for weekend trips...all within a relatively short driving distance. In any season, Lake Tahoe makes for a great weekend away...Here are some recommendations for the West Lake Tahoe area:

Food + Drink
The Sandbar at Christy Hill has an excellent lakeside location and does a good happy hour featuring house made sausages and local beers. 

Tahoe Mountain Brewing Co. has a brewpub in Tahoe City with a long list of beers on tap and a great menu of bar bites. Try the pretzel with house made beer mustard.

The Fire Sign Cafe is a popular spot for breakfast and lunch. Expect to queue on weekends; the breakfast sandwich and huevos rancheros are excellent.

The deck at Moe's Original BBQ has a stunning view of the lake and excellent food. The homemade sides (fresh summer tomatoes and sliced watermelon) are delicious and the griddled cornbread is a tasty treat.

Jake's on the Lake has a California inspired menu (get the artichokes!) and a killer location. I'd stick to apps and enjoy the view.

While skiing in Squaw, check out Rocker for lunch. The margaritas are great and they have patio seating for sunny days.

Sunnyside has a huge waterfront deck (perfect for dining alfresco in the summer months) and an eclectic, seasonally inspired menu. The zucchini sticks are a house specialty. Tip: Their retail wine list has loads of price friendly bottles. Order a bottle to-go for a nightcap.

Bed
Sunnyside Resort wins for location and friendly staff. The rooms are well-equipped; Garden suites have wood-burning fireplaces and the Lakefront Suites have terraces.

Plumpjack Inn is located in Squaw Village, walking distance to the main lift. This property is popular with families and kids, so if you're looking for something quiet, it may not be for you.

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During the Winter months, skiers have plenty of choice. Both Squaw Valley and Alpine Meadows offer world class skiing. Squaw Valley has faster lifts, a village at the base, and overall a newer, fresher feel. Alpine Meadows is a bit more dated, with not much of scene at the base.

Snowshoeing is a great way to see Lake Tahoe during the Winter months if you aren't a skier. West Shore Sports offers great rates on rental equipment. There are snowshoe trails in nearby Sugar Pine Point State Park.

In the Summer, book an afternoon sail with Tahoe Sailing Charters; the crew is friendly, the music is perfect and the unlimited beer & wine doesn't hurt. It's a great way to experience the lake close up...the water is crazy blue and crystal clear. 

There are tons of beautiful biking trails. West Shore Sports does bike rentals by the full or half day. 

For hiking, Eagle Rock trail is a great, quick hike with a spectacular view of the lake.

Meeks Bay is a great beach option; the beach itself is sandy, though it gets a bit rocky in the water.

Emerald Bay is stunning, but equires a hike. Tip: On summer weekends you'll need to arrive early to guarantee a parking spot.

Morocco has long been on my list of places to explore, and I was beyond thrilled at the chance to experience Marrakech. But, after just an afternoon of exploring the medina, I was ready to write Marrakech off as a chaotic tourist trap full of pushy peddlers. I spent the entire day fending off youngsters offering help and demanding money, haggling for literally EVERYTHING and just generally feeling like I was getting taken advantage of at every turn. I was beyond disappointed and completely exhausted. But on the following day, Marrakech revealed a new side of itself to me, and just like that, I was sold.

The souk overflowing with gorgeous textiles and traditional babouches, the spice shops electric with bright colors, the doors and floors with intricate designs and detailing, the mint tea and orange juice...Marrakech is a feast for the senses. I came away from this trip feeling so inspired, and I only scratched the surface of what Morocco has to offer. This is a place you'll want to return again and again. I know I do.

Here are some highlights, tips on traveling in a Muslim country and in general, a few things I wish I had known...

Food + Drink
There is no shortage of good food in Marrakech with a great many restaurants catering to the tourist set, but if you want something a bit more authentic, riad dining is the way to go. We loved Villa Des Orangers for delicious Moroccan cuisine in a gorgeous setting (tables set around the pool with candles everywhere). Tip: This is also a lovely hotel with a great location, very proximate to Jemaa el Fna (main square of Marrakech).

Dar Rhizlane is another riad with wonderful food and a very romantic setting (FYI there are rose petals covering every square inch of Marrakech. Prepare to be amazed). 

For lunch and a welcome escape from the Medina, check out Terrasse Des Epices. Everyone recommends it, and for good reason. The decor is chic and minimal, plus there's wifi and delicious orange juice to be had.

Le Grand Cafe De La Poste is an excellent option for an evening cocktail or dinner. Tip: Gentlemen, beware, closed toe footwear is required. We learned that lesson the hard way after being turned away for flip flops. Lucky for us, there's a Zara across the street so after a quick purchase of new shoes we were back in business. Be sure to try the oysters from Dahkla (Saharan coast of Africa!) and the monkfish tagine. Oh, and the frozen mojito is a delight.

Le Churchill Bar at La Mammounia is a bit of Britain in Africa. Tufted leather walls, leopard print chairs and stiff drinks in a smoky piano bar setting. We also enjoyed a sundowner or two in the garden bar of La Mammounia under the shade of the orange trees. It's not cheap, but the setting makes it all worth it.

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For something splashy and indulgent, check out La Mammounia. It's a private oasis just steps from the Medina. The pool is the perfect place to spend a sweltering afternoon and check out the spa for a traditional hamam experience.

Riad El Fenn is well designed and well priced. 

The Four Seasons Marrakech is a taxi ride from many attractions, but offers excellent service and is great for families. 

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Jardin Majorelle is everything you want it to be and more. The instagram-worthy blue walls of Yves St. Laurent's estate will not disappoint. Better still is the gallery showcasing his "Love" prints. Tip: Go just an hour or so before closing to avoid the crowds.

The Medina is the main attraction in Marrakech and has it's fair share of tourist traps (Want your photo taken with a monkey? This is the spot...), but it can also be an amazing place to explore if you're willing to go off the beaten path. Getting lost here is inevitable. Don't fight it. But, looking lost and breaking out a map will be the first indication to those interested that you're easy prey. Seemingly innocent looking young boys will offer to help you find your way, only to get you more lost and then demand money in exchange for delivering you back to where you started. It's a racket. So, give yourself plenty of time to get lost and wander around. When you are ready to make your way back, pop into a shop or cafe to ask for directions or consult your map. Otherwise, sit back and enjoy the experience. This is what Marrakech is all about.

Shopping in the souk is not for the faint of heart. Be prepared to haggle. For everything. There are so many trinkets and treasures here...handwoven baskets, hammered metal lanterns, earthenware tagines and beautiful linens. Tip: If you hate to haggle (like me!), most of the hotels have wonderful gift shops where the prices are set, but still reasonable. I found it more enjoyable to shop in this kind of environment without the pressure of negotiating. Still, if you're up for it, brushing up on some basic French pre-trip will better serve you as you barter your way through the souk. 

By far the best day I spent in Marrakech was touring with Marc and Veronique. Their photography workshop is the best way to see the real Marrakech, and the bonus is you will leave with some wonderful photographs! If you have the time, I'd highly suggest it.

Faim d'Epices is another wonderful way to spend an afternoon once you've had your fill of the souk. Located outside the city on an olive farm, I spent the day cooking a traditional Moroccan feast. Making traditional Berber bread was a highlight. 

Shopping for rugs is another signature activity in Marrakech. I think it might be impossible to find the same rug shop twice in the labyrinth of the Medina. At the very least, visit a few shops before making a purchase...and of course doing a bit of research beforehand is recommended. Knowing what style you're after (Kilim? Beni Ouiran?) will give you the upper hand when negotiating, and trust me, you'll need all the help you can get. These guys are good. You'll be offered Berber whiskey, but really it's just mint tea. It is a gesture of good faith, but also a way of keeping you in the shop. Tip: Pack an extra bag for carrying your new rug home. I suggest something like this. You'll save a bundle on shipping and customs fees. 

Treat yourself to an authentic Moroccan spa experience. Les Bains de Marrakech is a favorite. A hamam will leave you feeling refreshed and with baby soft skin. 

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Don't forget, Morocco is a Muslim country and while it has the most generally lax attitude about many things (women, drinking, etc,), there were many moments during my trip when I was reminded that liberalism aside, religion is taken seriously here. You should also note that religious rules are observed even more fiercely during the month of Ramadan. There is no explicit dress code, but I always felt more comfortable (despite the heat), when I wore pants as opposed to shorts. I felt on the whole that I was approached much less and it was easier to blend in. Loose pants and a hat are recommended. 

Alcohol is not widely sold and is not permitted to be consumed in view of the general public. Most terraces that serve alcohol must be removed from view of the street area (i.e. Le Grand Cafe de la Poste). Tip: Try the Moroccan wines! They are very tasty and well priced. Casablanca is a refreshing and crisp beer; perfect for a hot day in Marrakech! 

Taxis - You MUST negotiate the price for a taxi before entering. I found it helpful to ask someone at the hotel what the fair price for a taxi from point A to point B would be. That should give you a baseline for negotiating a rate. Moroccans drive a hard bargain; don't be afraid to walk away and find another taxi. Also note, taxis will always be more expensive in front of your hotel or a main tourist spot (like Jardin Majorelle). If you're on a budget. it's worth walking a little bit out of the way to find a taxi off the beaten path. 

For a trip outside the city, check out my guide to the Atlas Mountains.

I was always a bit skeptical about Hawaii. Luaus, leis and coconut bras...I thought the whole place was one big cheesy resort destination with drink tickets and all-you-can-eat buffets. With so much of the world to see, why bother with Hawaii? After a trip to Maui, I realized I was an idiot. Hawaii is awesome. Don't believe me? Here's how to get off the grid in Maui...

Food + Drink 
You'll eat like a king in Maui. From roadside stands to high end restaurants with dramatic seaside views, there is literally something delicious for everyone. Merriman's Kapalua was by far one of the most delicious meals we ate, matched only by the absolutely stunning sweeping views of the Pacific. We saw whales cresting in the distance while we gorged on Mai Tais and Kalua Pig Quesadillas. Tip: To save a few bucks, check out the sunset happy hour. The sunset here is epic. 

Paia Fish Market is in the hillside hippie village of Paia and has some of the freshest fish around. The food is simple (think grilled fish and fries), but super flavorful and tasty. Cash only. 

Mala Ocean Tavern has a great location, right on the beach. We stopped here for one last taste of Maui before catching our evening flight. The Gado Gado salad is so freaking good. 

Make the trek to Market Fresh Bistro for a truly local meal. The menu changes daily and ingredients are sourced from the nearby farms in the Upcountry area. Our brunch was delicious, including an unforgettable omelet with goat cheese from Surfing Goat Dairy. Reservations strongly suggested. 

Aunt Sandy's banana bread along the Road to Hana is a religious experience. Get there in time (they sell out every day) and pray for a loaf that's still warm from the oven. Better yet, get 2. You'll need them. Order up a few ice cold pineapple slices from the fridge and you're living the dream. 

Grandma's Coffee House is a great option for breakfast, or a midday coffee cake break.

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Lumeria Maui is a great alternative to the traditional resort experience. The property was once a housing complex for workers of a nearby plantation and has been lovingly restored (rain showers with river rock floors). Daily yoga classes are offered free to guests and are the perfect way to recharge your batteries. 

The Ritz Carlton Kapalua is great for families and those looking to be pampered.

The Fairmont Kea Lani is an all suite hotel built along the lava rock coast. Running paths here are perfect for staying active and soaking up the views.

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The Road to Hana is a beautiful way to see more of Maui. The white knuckle drive demands nerves of steel, but the dramatic views along the way more than make up for it. Stop along the way to cool off in the tide pools and explore waterfalls. Give yourself plenty of time to get there and back. The trip takes several hours and you'll need to factor in traffic during peak season (the road is one lane and super windy). 

Mendoza was an all too brief pitstop as part of a larger South American trip, but I have no doubt that we will return. The food, wine and landscapes were so special and the laid-back vibe made it the perfect escape.

Food + Drink
You're in the land of Malbec and exceptional beef, so prepare to be amazed at every table. 

Nadia OF is a quiet, romantic restaurant in a white colonial home located off a busy street right in the heart of Mendoza. The food & wine are impeccable and handled with expert care by Nadia and her husband Jose (owner and operator of nearby O.Fournier Winery). The food is very refined, so if you're after something more rustic, look elsewhere.

Bodega Ruca Malen is a great option for lunch. The menu is multi-course, high concept and includes wine pairings, plus a winery tour of the vineyards and facilities. Tip: Reservations are required. Call ahead and book a table outside under the covered terrace. 

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Cavas Wine Lodge is a special place. We actually planned a detour to Mendoza from Chile just to stay here! Cavas is comprised of individual adobe style villas, each with a plunge pool and roof deck complete with fireplace. Bikes are available for exploring the nearby vineyards. Tip: Request dinner on your roof deck as opposed to dining in the restaurant for a more intimate experience. 

Park Hyatt Mendoza is centrally located and walking distance to many restaurants in town. If you're planning to visit vineyards, this hotel might not be the best option, but would work well as a jumping off point for the beginning of your trip. 

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U.S. citizens must pay a reciprocity fee prior to arrival in Argentina. I'd suggest printing out an extra copy of your receipt of payment to show at border control. 

Notes coming soon...

Nashville is having a moment and I for one couldn't be happier about it. There's a lively, storied music scene and some truly great food making it the perfect destination for a weekend with friends. Here's how we spent our time there...

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The Hutton Hotel is a modern option near the Vanderbilt Campus. There isn't a ton of personality in the decor, but the rain showers make up for it. A shuttle to nearby destinations is offered to guests.

The Hermitage Hotel has old roots in Nashville and the old-fashioned decor to prove it. Service here is top notch, but the real benefit is proximity to the Oak Bar, which originated as a private gentleman's club in 1910. Tip: Check out their list of over 180 bourbons.

Located in The Gulch, The 404 Hotel is a truly boutique option with just 3 rooms. Book a table at their impressive restaurant 404 Kitchen and you don't even have to call an Uber.

Urban Cowboy is a hipster paradise/B&B housed in a Queen-Anne style Victorian mansion in East Nashville. Guests are treated to funky, Southwestern-style decor and claw foot bathtubs.

Food + Drink
Arrive hungry; there's plenty to eat here...

In the heavily trafficked and touristy area of Broadway, Acme Feed & Seed stands out for its' multi-level, concept driven space. Menu choices range from sushi to southern, but my moneys on the ribs. Tip: Check out the photobooth for a little souvenir!

Rolf and Daughters is a popular spot in Germantown and has received many accolades. Luckily, they live up the hype serving up hearty Italian fare in a funky, industrialspace. The cocktails are wonderful.

At some point during this trip, you'll probably have a hangover. And the best place to cure that hangover is at Barista Parlor where you can refuel with an iced coffee, and try one of their fabulous breakfast biscuit sandwiches.

Before Hot Chicken was a fast food trend, it was a Nashville original. Make sure you try some while you're here. There are plenty of local spots serving it up, but Hattie B's does it just right. You can choose your level of heat, but leave room for sides (mac and cheese, collards). Tip: The Midtown location is always packed. Try heading to the West Nashville location where the crowd isn't quite as large.

The Catbird Seat is a reservations only tasting menu restaurant, tricky to book, but worth seeking out.

Husk has a sister restaurant of the same name in Charleston, but the experience here is slightly different. Housed in a beautiful old mansion, the food here is equally tasty. Tip: Head over early for a cocktail in the basement bar.

If you're craving a sweet treat, check out Las Paletas for funky Mexican popsicles with flavors like avocado and rose.

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If you like live music, you've come to the right spot. Robert's Western World is located on Broadway, along with loads of other venues featuring live tunes, but it's undoubtedly one of the most authentic Nashville spots. Away from the hustle and bustle of Broadway, The Station Inn is another famous spot with an ever changing line-up of musical acts. Both are dives, and both are real fun.

White's Mercantile is a "general store for the modern day taste-maker" and they truly have a little of everything. Goods are carefully curated by owner Holly Williams, daughter of country legend Hank Williams Jr. Further up the road, iimogene + willie has been selling custom blue jeans out of a converted service station since 2009.

New Orleans is a little bit haunted, a little bit crazy and without a doubt the best place to spend your 29th birthday. 

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The Soniat House is a perfect little gem of a hotel in the French Quarter. In the morning, don't miss the house made biscuits, jam and good, strong coffee.

Food + Drink
Acme Oyster House in the French Quarter for chargrilled oysters and po'boys.

Commander's Palace is a must for their jazz brunch. The food is over the top delicious. Try the Bourbon Milk Punch for a little hair of the dog. 

Sylvain is a bit of Brooklyn in New Orleans. Great cocktail menu and a killer fried chicken sandwich. 

Antoine's for fine dining. Ask for a table in the back where the ambiance is livelier. 

Drinking is taken very seriously here...some bars are open 24 hours. Get into it. Grab a gigantic alcoholic slushy to-go at any of the sketchy daiquiri bars. It's the beverage of choice for people watching on Bourbon Street. 

Cafe Du Monde is a must. The line will be long, but worth it. Sure, you might find better beignets somewhere else, but this is a part of the New Orleans experience. 

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Not something I'd normally do, but we had a blast on a bike tour. It was the perfect mix of history and booze. Check out Confederacy of Cruisers.

If you're lucky, you might catch a parade. We went at the very beginning of Mardi Gras season and caught a pre-carnival parade with some seriously crazy floats.

Defend New Orleans is a great little shop in the Magazine District. 

Head over to Frenchmen Street for live music and dancing. The street is lined with options; you can't go wrong. We particularly liked D.B.A. - great music and a huge craft beer selection.

Let's be real, you're here to eat and drink like a lunatic.

Notes coming soon...

San Juan gets a bad rap...it's glittering strip is dotted with generic, high-rise hotels and casinos. Old San Juan has become a major port of call, with outlet shops and Italian restaurants catering to the hordes of cruise goers who filter into this tiny city daily. But, those willing to dig deeper are in for a treat. Ancient, blue cobblestone streets, candy colored stucco and Moorish architecture are all waiting if you're willing to peel back a layer or two...

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Hotel El Convento is a restored convent from the 1500’s and boasts a supreme location right in the heart of Old San Juan. The interior courtyard is lovely for lunch or cocktails and the service is outstanding.

Condado Vanderbilt is part of a new wave of development in the Condado area (about 15 minutes by car from Old San Juan). Recently refreshed, it has a beachfront location and several pools for guests to choose from. Their on-site restaurant Tacos & Tequila makes for great poolside fare.

Food + Drink
In Old San Juan, El Jibaro is the best for authentic Puerto Rican cuisine. Popular with locals and tourists, the menu features regional specialties like pasteles (mashed plantain and pork wrapped in banana leaves and steamed) and mofongo (mashed plantain and flavorful broth). Don’t miss the housemade Tres Leches cake for a little something sweet.

Hecho En Casa is good for a drink and appetizer (try the alcapurria; fried ground beef fritters).

 St. Germain Bistro offers a European bistro-style menu, focusing on fresh salads. They also have a reasonably priced prix-fixe dinner menu.

Jose Enrique has made quite a name for himself in Puerto Rico; he’s the most talked about chef on the island. His namesake restaurant in Santurce (about 20 mins ride away from Old San Juan) is all about what’s fresh and local, with a whiteboard menu changing daily. Cocktails here are designed to highlight local fruits like parcha and tamarind and the food is modern, but deeply rooted in traditional flavors. Go early if you don’t feel like waiting; the space is small and the queue is long. 

La Cubanita (a stone’s throw from El Convento) is a former general store. Shelves lined with detergent and dish soap memorialize the locations former glory. The drinks here are expertly crafted and the space is cool with a hidden speakeasy inside. 

La Factoria is a series of adjoining bars and makes for a fun night out. Each space feels different with the front bar serving global tapas. The wine bar is intimate with a handful of signature wine-based cocktails. A full bar and food menu is available in the front bar.

Cuatro Sombras is a coffee lover’s dream with an on-site roastery. The coffee here is strong; linger over a cup in their courtyard. Tip: Try the croissant sandwich with ham, local cheese and housemate guava butter. 

La Perla in Condado is a retro dream and harkens back to Puerto Rico’s heyday in the 1960’s. The vibe is fine dining, and the views spectacular.

Grab a popsicle at Senor Paleta to beat the heat (I like the coconut/pineapple combo). 

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El Morro is a must for history lovers; this ancient fort is a study in masonry with beautiful stonework and sweeping views of the ocean. Entry fee is $5.00.

As far as I’m concerned, there’s only one place to shop in San Juan (skip the outlet stores). Ole Curiousidades features Puerto Rican made crafts (most in other tourist traps are Made in China) and the big draw here are the Panama Hats. Hats are custom fit and shoppers select their choice of ribbon. If the shopkeeper is feeling jolly, ask him to see the famed $3,000 hat. They also sell beautiful hand made espadrilles. 

Paseo de La Princesa is a beautiful, waterfront park great for walking or jogging. Great spot to the watch the sunset.

Coming soon...

I fell hard for Cuzco and the Sacred Valley. There's something really magical going on here, and what you hear about Machu Picchu being a spiritual place is absolutely the truth. And if you don't buy it, after a few pisco sours you'll be feeling the mojo. The people, the food and the natural beauty make Peru a country worth seeing for yourself.

Food + Drink
Good food is taken seriously in Peru. Birthplace of the potato...so you know you're in good hands. In Cuzco, Limo was a delicious find. The pisco menu alone is 3 pages! Be sure to try a Chilcano here; a cocktail made with fresh ginger and lime juice. The service was great and everything fresh and tasty. Affordable and offers a nice perch for people watching over Plaza De Armas.

Map Cafe is a modern space in a rustic setting. The food is absolutely delicious. Good option for lunch. 

Restaurante Inkazuela is a favorite for dinner. A variety of hearty stews are offered (get the Caribbean Chicken) and affordably priced. Cozy up by the fire with some red wine.

Chicha is owned by a famous Peruvian chef with a restaurant empire in Lima. He's developed quite a following here as well, so reservations are recommended. Delicious variety of fresh juices and seafood. 

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In Cuzco, the Hotel Monasterio is a classic, old hotel (it was a former monastery). The rooms are slightly dated, but the location is great. Breakfast in the courtyard is a treat.  Coca tea is offered in the lobby around the clock. Tip: If the altitude gets to you, request an in-room oxygen tank. I did!

Next door, Palacio Nazarenas is housed in a former convent. The grounds are stunning and there's a lovely pool area for the warmer months. Suites here come complete with 24-hour butler service, iPads and an in-room pisco sour bar. The spa is small, but mighty. 

In the Sacred Valley the Tambo Del Inka is a bus + train ride from Machu Picchhu, but worth the journey. The rooms are beautifully decorated in modern Peruvian style using native textiles. The spa is state of the art and absolutely incredible. Tip: Go for the quinoa pancakes for breakfast. 

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The draw here is Machu Picchu. If you don't have time to do the Inca Trail, you can hitch a ride on Peru Rail. The train ride itself is beautiful, running along side the Urumbamba river and through the Sacred Valley. Grab a window seat and bring your camera. Light refreshments are served. 

Once you arrive in Aguas Calientes (at the base of Machu Picchu) the real fun begins. Buses run continuously up the mountain...a ride I can only describe as the scariest 20 minutes of my life. There are no guardrails, the road itself is narrow and crumbling, and definitely not wide enough for 2 buses. If I had it to do all over again, I'd walk up instead. There's a small, semi-protected hiking path for those who choose this option. Plus, the queue for the bus is a drag. It's the only legitimate hiking you'll likely be doing, so go for it! 

If you overdo it with the hiking, book a massage. If your lodging doesn't offer a spa, there are plenty of standalone spas throughout town. Treatments are very affordably priced.

Tip: Bring your passport with you and make sure you get a Machu Picchu stamp in your passport. Corny, perhaps, but also really f'in cool. 
 

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Make sure you make advance reservations for visiting Machu Picchu; the Peruvian government restricts the number of tickets sold per day in an effort to preserve the sacred ruins. Reservations can be made here. Tickets for Wayana Picchu are sold separately. It's a steep, steep hike...don't look down! 

The altitude here is no joke. I felt it literally the moment we stepped off the plane in Cuzco. The coca tea helps, and most high end hotels have oxygen enriched rooms to help you acclimate. Take it easy and give yourself a few days to acclimate. 

I have the distinct pleasure of being a life-long fan of Rincon; my family is from the area and I've been visiting since I was an infant. Plus, my Dad lives there now! As much as I'd like to keep this place a secret, the truth is it's been a favorite of surfers and beam bums for awhile. Just 3.5 hours from New York City, Rincon is a perfect weekend escape. Jetblue offers direct flights, though the times are a bit funky and sadly require taking a dreaded red-eye. There are few places so close that make you feel so far away. Just keep it on the DL, k?

Food + Drink
Shipwreck Bar & Grill is a tasty, affordable option. 

Tamboo Tavern is tops for location (right on the beach) and is great for lunch. It's also  the perfect place to grab a mojito at sunset...it was named by Esquire magazine as one of America's best beach bars! Live music at night is a bonus.

La Copa Llena has an eclectic menu with a slightly Asian twist. The oceanfront location and tiki torches make it an ideal spot for a romantic, beachy night. 

Carta Buena is a juice bar with good options for a healthy breakfast (fried things are tasty, but you're wearing a bikini...) The smoothies and quinoa bowls are delicious. 

Pool Bar is my favorite for sushi and mojitos. There's a pool in the middle of this open air restaurant and a projection screen playing surf movies on repeat. The Starving Surfer roll is awesome. 

Calypso Cafe is located at Maria's Beach (popular surf break) and is unrivaled for sunset happy hour. Grab a rum punch and head down to the beach to watch the day fade away.

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Casa Islena Inn is oceanfront and has a pool. Yoga classes and stand up paddle boarding are available. 

Casa Verde is walking distance to the beach and restaurants.

The Lazy Parrot is a drive from beaches and is a budget friendly option. Check out the Sea Glass bar for a drink.

The Horned Dorset is a splurge, but worth it if you're celebrating a special occasion. Tip: Even if you're not staying here, it's worth visiting for a sunset cocktail. Call ahead to make a reservation. Proper attire suggested.

AirBnb has plenty of good options. Check out my Dad's house!

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Book a sunset sail with all you can drink rum punch. The best $50 you'll spend all trip long. The views are incredible.

Rincon is a great place to learn to surf. Puntas Surf School is a solid option.

Taino Divers offer daily dives and snorkel tours.

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Puerto Rico is a U.S. territory and does not require a passport for travel!

The nearest airport is Aguadilla (45 mins away) but has a limited flight schedule. You can also fly into San Juan, but it's two and half hour drive. 

Renting a car is absolutely necessary. Taxis aren't widely available and you'll want the freedom to explore different surf beaches. 

Santa Fe was a pit-stop on our cross country road trip, and I wish we could have stayed longer.
Tex-Mex, strong margaritas and Georgia O'Keefe...what's not to love?

Food + Drink
We loved Cafe Pasqual's for enchiladas. Tip: Ask for them "Christmas Style", a mix of red and green chile sauces. Make a reservation.

The Dragon Room has a good happy hour with margaritas and a popcorn machine.

Secreto Lounge has an inventive cocktail list and cozy fireplaces.

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Rosewood Inn of the Anasazi was a cozy option for the evening. The location was perfect for exploring Santa Fe and our room had a fireplace; excellent on a rainy day! The restaurant downstairs served a delicious breakfast. 

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Do NOT miss the Georgia O'Keefe museum. It's small enough for a quick breeze through. The photographs of Georgia in her Abiquiqui studio are stunning.  Check out the gift shop for unique souvenirs. 

We were surprised and delighted to find a traditional Japanese-style onshen in the mountains of the American Southwest. Ten Thousand Waves offers massages, spa treatments, and private hot tubs. Reservations are a must. Tip: Book a package that includes lunch at their on-site restaurant, Izanami. The izakaya style food was a welcome detour after we OD-ed on tasty Tex-Mex. 

Notes coming soon...

I love it when my friends get married. I love it even more when they get married in beautiful places. San Miguel is one of those places...cobblestone streets, colorful haciendas and tequila...oh, the tequila.

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Rosewood San Miguel is a beautiful property. Situated within walking distance to La Parroquia and cute restaurants. Ask for a room with a terrace and fireplace. Tip: The rooftop bar has an awesome view of the whole of San Miguel. 

Food + Drink
Check out Moxi for dinner. The food is modern mexican and absolutely delicious. Located inside the Hotel Matilda (another good lodging option!). 

Cafe Rama is a great place to work off your hangover with a fresh green juice and a big order of Huevos Rancheros.

La Azotea is great for a rooftop cocktail and snack. 

La Sirena Gorda for a late night beer.

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Mercado de Artesanias is good for beautiful textiles, Mexican dresses and pottery. 

Fabrica La Aurora is a 15 minute walk outside of town and has some interesting gallery spaces.

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San Miguel is about 3 and half hours by car from Mexico City. There are buses that make the journey, but a private car can be arranged through your hotel. 
 

Memorial Day weekend spent with good friends, featuring a not so false fire drill, lots of pretty hikes and a really heated game of Monopoly. Lucky for us, Sea Ranch is a mere 2 hours from San Francisco. That plus the spotty cell reception make it the perfect weekend getaway.

If you plan on visiting, here are some things you need to know...

Food + Drink
Within the community of Sea Ranch there is literally 1 option for dinner. The Black Point Grill at Sea Ranch Lodge has a stunning view, so if you want to eat out make an early bird reservation for the best views.

My advice? Load up on groceries at The Surf Market in the nearby town of Gualala (10 minutes by car) and whip up something spectacular at your rental. If you get a craving for pizza Upper Crust is good. Not great, but good.  

For breakfast, Two Fish Baking Company is a true gem. Get there early for the best selection. They have a wide selection of baked goods (I'm coming back for the sticky buns. And the morning buns.) and breakfast calzones. Come back later in the day and pick up a baguette for your cheese plate. Tip: Bread sells out quickly.You can call ahead and reserve a loaf.

If you fancy a ride, spend the day in Mendocino (An hour and thirty minutes by car). Trillium Cafe is an excellent choice for lunch (the chicken pot pie and kale caesar salad were tasty), though the service is a little slow. Stop at Good Life Cafe & Bakery to refuel with some coffee before the ride back to Sea Ranch.

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While it is possible to book individual hotel rooms through The Sea Ranch Lodge, renting a home is the true magic of this place. For easy online booking, I suggest Sea Ranch Rentals. Tip: Make sure your rental includes linens, otherwise you'll need to pack your own. Also some units are pet friendly!

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There's not much to do here, and isn't that kind of the best? Plan to bring all those books and magazines you've been meaning to read, camp out in a comfy chair and get to it. If you're feeling restless, there's a heated lap pool and tennis courts. We loved hiking along the coast, checking out the seal pups and enjoying the stunning views.

If you're getting restless, Anderson Valley is 1.5 hours by car and boasts an impressive list of up and coming wineries and vineyards offering tours and tastings.

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The drive up to Sea Ranch is no joke. If you suffer from motion sickness, I'd suggest loading up on some Dramamine. You'll thank me later. 

Shelter Island holds a special place in my heart. It's where we rented a home for 3 years, got married and spent countless days with good, good friends. Truly some of the best days of my life. If you're lucky enough to visit, you're lucky enough.

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There aren't many lodging options, and even less in the off-season when most of the island goes into a deep and dark hibernation. If money is no object, check out Sunset Beach. 

The Chequit just got a major facelift and is walking distance from the ferry (albeit uphill...). 

The Shelter Island House (formerly La Maison Blanche) is a solid option, up the hill from Crescent Beach with petanque courts, a pool and beach cruisers. Fun fact; I spent my wedding night here! The on-site restaurant is tasty and affordable.

The Ram's Head Inn is housed in a beautiful, old estate. Tennis and small, private beach area.

The Pridwin is a classic, waterfront inn, offering lodging since 1927. Ask for a room facing the water and enjoy some killer sunsets. Tip: Their Wednesday BBQ's are legendary and are open to non-guests. 

There are a handful of B&B's on island: Azalea House, The Candlelite Inn, House on Chase Creek and Two South Ferry.

Food + Drink
Commander Cody's is a must for tender as hell ribs. The home-baked sweets are delicious. Service is slow, so be prepared to wait. You're on island time. They also have a seafood market with some of the freshest, local fish available. 

Vine Street Cafe is perfect for classics like Pasta Bolognese and Tuna Tartar. Don't miss the Calamari Salad. Tip: Go early for the prix-fixe menu.

18 Bay offers a nightly 4-course Chef's menu using produce from local farms. The pastas are always amazing. 

Salt Boat Bar & Grill is a great option for lunch. Good cocktails and raw bar selection.

Sweet Tomatoes for wood-fired pizzas and late night food. 

Marie Eiffel Market (formerly Redding's) is a neighborhood favorite for morning coffee and breakfast sandwiches (make sure you ask for it on a baguette). Grab lunch to go for a beach picnic.

Sunset Beach is perfect for rosé, fried artichokes and people watching. The music is amazing.  

Maria's Kitchen makes a mean breakfast burrito.

Stars Cafe in the Heights is a local institution for homemade pastries, coffee and breakfast sandwiches. Bonus: they're open year-round; a rarity in these parts!

Shelter Island Craft Brewery for local suds. Or, take a step back in time at The Dory (located on Main Street). Owner, Jack, is usually sitting at the bar.

The Tuck Shoppe for ice cream.

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This is the type of place where you can do nothing and somehow manage to have an excellent time. I suggest bringing a really good book, a picnic and hunkering down at Wades Beach (it's less of a scene than Sunset Beach) for the day. But, for those with a restless spirit...

Rent a paddleboard.

Drive over to Sagaponack for wine tasting at Wolffer Estate (their rosé is a Hamptons summer staple and sells out quickly!).

Take a Pilates class.

Renting a bike is key for exploring the island; rentals are available at the gas station and are a great way to get to the beach since permits are required for vehicles.

Hike through the Mashomack Preserve. 

Take a tour of the historic Sylvester Manor and check out their farm stand.

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Shelter Island is literally an island. It's accessible by 2 ferries, The North Ferry and The South Ferry. These two companies are independently owned and operated, and only accept cash. The North Ferry is within walking distance to the Greenport train station (trains run frequently from Penn Station) and it only costs $2 to ride the ferry as a walk-on. 

There is one taxi company on the whole island and things can get backed up during busy summer weekends. Plan ahead if you need a ride.

Notes coming soon...

Weekends spent with our nearest and dearest; good conversation, cheese plates for days, pool parties, bike rides to the beach, red wine and a 300 piece puzzle I'll never forget.

If you get hungry....

Food + Drink
Southampton Publick House is great for wings, housemade beers and football in the Fall.

Tate's Bake Shop is a Hampton's favorite.  The classic, crispy cookies are a bit of a staple at our house (I'm looking at you Ginger Zinger). Ice cream sandwiches are available during the summer.

Silver's Restaurant is a lunchtime classic with old-school favorites like Lobster Salad. 

Little Red delivers consistent, tasty food at a reasonable price point. Ask for a table on the patio and enjoy Ham & Cheese sliders with housemade chips. Check out their sister restaurant, Red Bar, for dinner.

The Village Gourmet Cheese Shop has an excellent cheese counter and coffee bar; perfect place to load up on staples for a beach picnic. 

Tutto il Giorno for high-end, but rustic Italian and a possible celebrity sighting. 

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In the Fall, visit a nearby farm for apple and pumpkin picking. The Milk Pail is a local favorite. Tip: Don't leave without a few apple cider donuts.

For a dose of culture, check out the Parrish Art Museum. The building itself is beautiful. Or, make it a beach day. Cooper's Beach charges for parking, but doesn't require a beach permit like most local beaches.

Food + Drink
Tokyo does high/low very well. And since this city is all about juxtaposition, it makes perfect sense...a handful of Michelin stars mingling with Grab & Go spots like 7-11 and Lawson Station (famed for it's Egg Salad Sandwich). So, where should you eat...

Like many travelers who watch too much TV, we wanted that quintessential Japanese sushi experience (Hello Jiro) without taking out a loan. Enter Sushi Ikkyu...no menu, no English, all good. Google Maps refuses to acknowledge it, so here's the address: 40-1 Kamiyama-cho Shibuya, +81 (0)3 3468 0019. Reservations mandatory. 

MOCH Bar in Harajuku was one of my favorite finds in the sense that I didn't know I was thirsty for a handcrafted melon mojito, but I was. This teeny, tiny bar is a one man show, and the care and consideration that goes into each cocktail is mind blowing. The cantaloupe for the melon mojito is hand juiced (yes, you can juice a cantaloupe!) and served in the most perfect glass. Even the ice cubes were a revelation. We went once mid-afternoon and again for a nightcap. 

Sakura Tei in Harajuku delivers an interactive experience and is literally a whole in the wall. Try your hand at Okonomiyaki (savory pancakes with your choice of filling) on the griddle with some pitchers of beer. A great budget-friendly dinner for a large group. 

Fuglen is a Norwegian coffee shop/café by day, and cocktail space by night. The ginger daiquiri was outstanding, but the hand carved ice-balls kind of stole the show.

Golden Gai in Shinjuku is a series of narrow alleyways with cupboard sized bars. Some are friendly to foreigners, some are not. Each has a distinct vibe and the only way to find the right place for you is to wander around, opening doors and peeking inside. We settled in nicely at Aces Music Salon...the music is good, the drinks are strong and the owner is nice enough. Tip: Most bars in Japan have a cover charge (anywhere from 3,000 to 10,000 yen) to help offset costs. It's annoying at first, but when you consider the fact that those in the service industry don't earn tips, it's not so bad. Aces Music Salon is one of the few bars in Golden Gai that does not have a cover charge. 

Perhaps the most convincing reason you need to visit Aces, is it's proximity to some of the tastiest fried chicken you'll ever eat. If it has a name, I don't know it, but it shares a wall with Aces. You'll find it. They offer a range of tempura skewers (shisito peppers, cod), but the real hit is the Kaarage, tasty, deep fried chicken morsels with a healthy dollop of mayo and a side of lemon. Best eaten late at night after many, many rounds of vodka & tonics.

There are plenty of Maisen outposts throughout the city (with many people waiting in line). Find the one nearest you and order the kurobuta tonkatsu (panko crusted pork filet). The delicious dipping sauce is also sold in bottles in their gift shop.

Spring Valley Brewery offers a great set lunch menu and beer flights. Definitely not a traditional Japanese experience, but worth exploring if you're in the area (Daikanyama)

Warasou was by far one of my favorite meals. The menu was entirely in Japanese, the waitress spoke no English and everything we tasted was perfect. You're rolling the dice here if you can't read Japanese (we can't), but if you're up for an adventure, you'll be rewarded. Must order: fried oysters, tuna sashimi, steamed mushroom salad, fried eggplant salad, crab fried rice. Reservations suggested (have your hotel call) and be sure to show your taxi driver the address:  和楽惣 (わらそう 広尾)
東京都南麻布5-1-1 プラザケイ1階

Shabusen in Ginza is a great option for lunch. Located on the basement level of the Ginza Core building, they have a well priced set lunch menu. Meals here are do it yourself, but the friendly staff is happy to offer instruction. 

TRUMPROOM in Shibuya is a multi level dance party perfect for people watching. The decor is over the top, but the fashion is better. The 10,000 yen cover charge includes 1 drink. 

Commune 246 in Omotesando is an outdoor food court with a little bit of everything from shaved Hawaiian ice to thai curries.

If you're craving a Western style breakfast, try Ivy Place (Daikanyama). The chocolate bread with ricotta cream and berry jam was really something else.

Lauderdale also offers a great Western style breakfast in a chic brasserie style space with outdoor seating. The french toast is heavenly, or grab a seat at the bar and enjoy a house made croissant and latte. (Roppongi)

If you're craving a burger (it happens), check out Arms Burger. It's a classic diner style burger with a perfectly crisped patty and gooey, melted American cheese. Plus, the cafe is dog friendly. After lunch, walk just a few yards to Little Nap Coffee Stand for a post-food coma pick me up. (Yoyogi Park)

There are a seemingly endless amount of department stores in Tokyo. And each one has a basement with over the top food stalls selling everything from finely packaged sweets to bowls of ramen. My favorite was the Minamoto Store in Ginza. Come hungry. The Kojun Building in Ginza has an impressive selection of Michelin quality restaurants, open for lunch. You'd be hard pressed to find a better value for menu in the area than Kaika Teppanyaki. The Japanese beef here is unbelievable. 

The Gonpachi Restaurant space was used as the inspiration for one of the many intricately choreographed fight scenes for Kill Bill; the food here is worth fighting for. The menu is tapas style and good for groups. Get the Moscow Mule made with homemade extra strong ginger soda. 

One of the most fascinating parts of Japanese culture is their ability to take concepts from other cultures, study them and then perfect them. With that said, you should feel no guilt about eating non-Japanese cuisine while traveling in Japan. I had the best French pastries and pizza in Japan!

Coffee
Coffee culture in Japan is such a big deal. Here's where to caffeinate. 

Mocha Coffee in Daikanyama is a must for their flavorful, Yemeni coffee. Served black, it's strong as hell, with a price tag to match. Expect to pay $8 for an iced coffee here.

Cafe Kitsuné in Aoyama serves hand-dripped coffee, cold brew and maccha drinks. They sell their coffee by the bag and also offer a variety of sweets and sandwiches.

Paddler's Coffee is a great place is refuel during a shopping spree in Shibuya serving Stumptown Coffee. 

Omotesando Koffee has a slick space with various locations throughout the city. 

Mister Donut (don't laugh) makes an excellent iced coffee that doesn't break the bank. And the donuts are divine. 

Bed
You likely won't be sleeping much in this town (I didn't), but you'll need a place to call home base either way. The Hotel Cerulean Tower has an unbeatable location about 5 minutes walk to the chaos of Shibuya station, and 10 minutes from the laid back neighborhood of Daikanyama (great shopping). The hotel won't win any design awards, but the rooms have great views of Tokyo and the concierge was very helpful in booking us some last minute dinner reservations. Tip: Make sure to ask for a bed with a feathertop. The mattresses here skew towards concrete.

Another more budget friendly option is the Granbell Hotel. Located a stone's throw from Shibuya Station, it's also a great jumping off point for exploring the city. 

If you want a different vibe, there are plenty of Air BnB options throughout Tokyo. But, for my money, having the assistance of a front desk/concierge is really helpful in a city like this. 

Play
The Mori Art Museum has an interesting collection of contemporary and modern art in a central location. The gift shop is excellent. Buy the pass with access to Tokyo City View, an observation deck with 360 views of the city. The Sky Deck is an open air viewing area, open when weather permits.

Nezu Museum is great if you want a little moment of zen. The museum itself wasn't interesting to me (I'd suggest going only if you have a supreme interest in ancient Japanese pottery), but I loved the outdoor gardens. That alone is worth the price of entry.

The Daikanyama neighborhood was heaven on earth to me. The buildings here are low, the overall vibe is sleepy (shops don't open until 11) and everyone is really, really cool. You can't visit this area without stepping foot in T-Site. This giant bookstore/gift shop literally has something for everyone. It's like Barnes & Noble went to study abroad and became unrecognizably hip. Tip: The upstairs lounge Anjin serves early (pancakes and cappuccino) til late (mojitos and veggie tempura) and is the perfect place to take a load off. 

Shopping is a huge part of the allure of Tokyo. Retail culture here is amazing, and the assortment of wares is unbelievable. Some favorite shops...

Plage (also in Daikanyama) has a great range of women's clothing and accessories. 

Tenoha has a great selection of housewares, cosmetics, pantry items and women's clothing. Their on-site restaurant is worth a visit.

Daikanyama UES for raw denim.

The Common Tempo for a great selection of international brands, and a curated mix of accessories for Men and Women.

Saturdays Surf NYC is not a Japanese brand, but the Japanese knack for service is alive and well at their coffee counter. Great place to refuel and chat up the charming baristas. 

Hollywood Ranch Market has a great selection of Men's and Women's clothing. The shop is small, but packs a big punch. 

Nimes and Honoré have lovely basics with a French twist.

Okura for classic, indigo-dyed garments. 

Found Muji in Aoyama is a concept store featuring items from around the globe that fit the Muji esthetic. 

Tokyu Hands requires at minimum an hour for browsing. This multi level craft mecca has literally everything you never knew you needed. Excellent place to stock up on loads of souvenirs.

Shimokitazawa is an area popular with the hipster set in Tokyo. This area is known for terrific vintage shopping (with reasonable prices!) and cheap eats. It's a little outside the city center, but easily accessible by train.

Other favorites include United Arrows, Kiddy Land (for all things Hello Kitty), Loft (great place to pick up souvenirs), Muji (yes, we have this in the States, but it's just so much better here. Stock up on cosmetics and food items unavailable in the US),  Super A Market in Aoyama (outlet prices on amazing designer pieces), Hankyu Men's (high-end Men's department store with a super chic Monocle Cafe in the basement). 

It's called the Robot Restaurant, though eating here would be a crime considering the endless food options at your fingertips. It's all about the experience. Bikini-clad women fighting with robotic sharks and cartoon pandas? Yep. I guess this is what being on drugs feels like? Nothing makes sense and everything is amazing. Don't fight it, just go with it. Tip: Tickets are purchased in advance online, but you need to go 30 minutes before the show starts to claim your seats. Get there early...you want to be in the front row. 

Tsukiji Fish Market has become a huge draw for tourists and if you want to see it for yourself, it will require some diligent planning. Only 120 visitors are allowed into the tuna auctions daily (closed Sunday) which begin at 5am. In order to secure a spot in one of the two groups of 60, people start queueing up at 2am. I'd suggest trying your luck early in the trip when jet lag has gotten the better of you. Otherwise, just come to see the market itself. It's open to the public, though most stalls close up shop between 10 and 11AM. Make sure you have sushi for breakfast here! There are plenty of great places and you really can't go wrong. 

For a dose of culture, check out Meiji Shrine. It's a calm oasis of peace in the otherwise hectic area of Harajuku. Tip: Come on a Sunday morning when wedding ceremonies in traditional dress take place. 

No trip to Tokyo is complete without an evening of Karaoke. If Karaoke-Kan is good enough for Bill Murray & Scarlett Johannson, it's good enough for you! Get a private room and press the intercom whenever you need a refill. Tambourines are provided free of charge. 

Etc.
The most important piece of advice I can offer is to get a pocket wifi system! Japan is a large city and few things are labeled in English. If you don't have an International data plan ($$$), a pocket wifi is essential for getting around. Pocket wifi systems are available to rent through Japan Experience and can be picked up at the airport, or dropped off at your hotel for no additional charge. A prepaid envelope is included in the package and all you have to do is drop it in a mailbox on the date of your return. So. EASY.

The train system in Tokyo is extensive and makes exploring this vast city almost effortless. Your first few trips will be confusing, but once you get the hang of the system it's actually quite intuitive. If you plan on using the train a lot, get a Suica or Pasmo card. These are pre-paid cards that allow you to skip the ticket machines. 

Taxis are also widely available and much less expensive than I expected. For hard to find locations, a taxi is the way to go. Tip: Make sure you have your concierge write down the name of your destination and hotel on a piece of paper to show to the taxi driver. 

When riding in a taxi, don't hand the money directly to the driver. Instead, place it on the small tray. Conversely, most taxis accept credit card. Also, never open a taxi door. Allow the driver to open it for you. They take great pride in their work.

On tipping: We are trained to tip for exemplary service, but in Japan, excellent service comes standard and tipping is seen as offensive. It's a difficult concept to embrace, but a few sincere "domo origato"s will suffice. 

The language barrier is a part of the fun here, but for ordering in restaurants we found the Google Translator a true godsend. 

Some of the larger department stores offer tax-fee shopping for foreigners. If you'd like to take advantage of this benefit, you must have your passport handy. 

No matter what you do, do not leave Tokyo without purchasing a box of Tokyo Banana Cookies.  They are sold at the airport, and in some train station locations with a limit of 5 boxes per person. These tasty little snacks are the perfect gift to bring back home for your co-workers, friends and family. You'll thank me. 

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Note: A handful of these photos were taken by my dear friend, Erica McCartney and are used with her permission. I highly suggest traveling with a professional photographer, if you can swing it. 

Notes coming soon...

Notes coming soon...